ECOMUSK R

Musk – Alicyclic
Written By Fulvio Ciccolo
ECOMUSK R symrise molecule molecola scentspiracy

Exploring Ecomusk R: A Comprehensive Overview

Imagining the world of synthetic molecules as a dense, intricate, and heavily scented forest isn’t difficult. Over the years, this forest has amazed the public with fragrant recreations of natural, multifaceted essences and much more. Beneath its surface, the undergrowth harbors an odorous, mysterious, and mostly uncharted underbelly with marvelous and cavernous facets. Let us then venture through this sprawling forest, endeavoring to uncover the secrets of a relatively young molecule: Ecomusk R.

Alicyclic Musks: An Historical Introduction

While not much is known about the history of Ecomusk R, there exists a direct lineage that connects certain molecules belonging to the macro-class of Alicyclic Musks to the modern development of the molecule.

In 1969, thanks to the hard work of the scientists at International Flavors and Fragrances (IFF), a new molecule was identified for the first time in history. This molecule belongs to a completely new class of musks called Alicyclic Musks, and due to its prominent fruity and rose character, the molecule was aptly named Rosamusk.

While Rosamusk was the first Alicyclic Musk to be discovered, older literature regarding the subject might create some confusion. In fact, said texts tended to indicate Cyclomusk, a muskier-scented molecule discovered by BASF in 1975, as the first Alicyclic Musk ever observed. This historical inconsistency might have arisen from the reported lack of interest shown by the IFF regarding the molecule after its discovery.

It wasn’t until the last decade of the ‘90s that Firmenich, showing interest in the two Alicyclic Musks, introduced two new commercially acclaimed molecules influenced by their predecessors: Helvetolide® and Romandolide®. Helvetolide®, obtained by Giersch and Schulte-Elt, was based on the pre-existing base structure of Rosamusk, with the addition of two methyl groups derived by Cyclomusk. This resulted in a rich, musk-ambrette scent with pronounced pear accord, allowing the molecule to synergize with other musks. On the other hand, Romandolide® was initially obtained by Alvin Williams, who replaced the gem-dimethyl group already observed in Helvetolide® for a carbon group. This modification not only made the molecule easier to synthetize, but also added a musky, fruity fragrance with blackberry facets.

After the expiration of Romanolide®’s patent, which was originally registered by Firmenich on May the 4th, 2001, other companies had the opportunity to synthetize the molecule, resulting in the emergence of serveral new variants. During the Simppar even in Paris in June 2022, Symrise introduced two new molecules to the world of perfumery: Globanone and Ecomusk R.

Olfactory Profile

Ecomusk R (also known as (1S,1'R)-[1-(3',3'-dimethyl-1'-cyclohexyl)ethoxycarbonyl]methyl propanoate) is an ester belonging to the macro-family of Alicyclic Musk. When referring to Alicyclic Musks, also known as Cycloalkyl Esters, we are referring to a relatively novel class of musk compounds which possess a significantly different structure if compared to other musk classes, such as Polycyclic, Macrocyclic and so on.

Ecomusk R is a clear, colorless to pale yellow odorous liquid. It finds application in perfumery, fabric softeners, and in hygiene products. Its peculiar combination of musky, powdery, and musky ambrette facets, accompanied by a rich dark fruity themes reminiscent of apple and red fruit, make Ecomusk R an ideal choice to enhance, add depth and volume to fruity fragrances. Its musky tone, alongside its distinctive powdery, velvety and cotton-like effect with hints of ionon, makes it suitable for use in fabric softeners, shampoos, and soaps.

Lastly, Ecomusk R, like its predecessors, has embraced a path that emphasizes biodegradability and renewability (66.6%) , which is now more important than ever. By doing so, it actively contributes to fostering a suitable approach to the field of chemistry, while simultaneously promoting environmentally friendly practices and methods.

Ecomusk R
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Fulvio Ciccolo
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