Polysantol ® (FCH)

Polysantol® (107898-54-4) Technical Ingredient Overview

• 🏭 Manufacturer — Firmenich

• 🔎 Chemical Name — 3,3-Dimethyl-5-(2,2,3-trimethyl-3-cyclopenten-1-yl)-4-penten-2-ol

• 🧪 Synonyms — Polysantol®, Santol Pentenol, Mysantol®, Tertiary Sandalwood Alcohol

• 📂 CAS Number — 107898-54-4

• 📘 FEMA Number — Not assigned

• ⚖️ Molecular Weight — 222.37 g/mol

• 🧬 Chemical Formula — C₁₅H₂₆O

• 📝 Odor Type — Woody (Sandalwood)

• 📈 Odor Strength — High intensity with exceptional diffusivity

• 👃🏼 Odor Profile — Powerful, creamy, diffusive sandalwood with smooth musky undertones, lactonic warmth, and subtle cedarwood aspects

• ⚗️ Uses — High-fidelity synthetic sandalwood substitute for woody, oriental, amber, and creamy floral compositions; functions as fixative and structure-builder

• 🧴 Appearance — Clear, colorless liquid

What is Polysantol®?

Polysantol® is a high-performance synthetic aroma chemical engineered to reproduce the olfactory signature of natural sandalwood (Santalum album). Developed and trademarked by Firmenich, this molecule represents a significant advancement in sustainable sandalwood alternatives, offering perfumers a cost-effective solution that maintains the complexity and sophistication of natural sandalwood without contributing to the depletion of endangered sandalwood trees.

The compound's chemical structure features a saturated aliphatic tertiary alcohol with a substituted cyclopentene ring, which accounts for its low volatility and exceptional substantivity (Surburg & Panten, 2006). Unlike earlier synthetic sandalwood materials that performed primarily in base notes, Polysantol® demonstrates remarkable versatility across all fragrance phases—top, heart, and base—making it uniquely valuable for modern perfumery (Pybus & Sell, 1999).

Polysantol® exhibits minimal batch-to-batch variation and demonstrates excellent stability in both alcohol-based fine fragrances and functional fragrance applications, including soaps, detergents, and personal care products.

Historical Background

The development of synthetic sandalwood substitutes intensified following India's 1977 export ban on Santalum albumoil, which created urgent demand for high-quality alternatives to this precious natural material. Early synthetic sandalwood molecules included Sandalore® (1976) and compounds based on isocamphylcyclohexanol chemistry.

Polysantol® was developed by Firmenich in the early 1980s as part of their research program on campholenic aldehyde-derived sandalwood chemicals. The compound emerged from systematic investigations into aldol condensation reactions between campholenaldehyde and various ketones, followed by selective reduction. The Polysantol® trademark was officially published and protected by Firmenich SA on October 22, 1985 (brand N°497404).

The molecule gained significant recognition following its prominent use in Guerlain's Samsara (1989), where it was employed at approximately 9.5% in the fragrance concentrate—an unusually high concentration that demonstrated the material's capacity to create powerful sandalwood effects. More recently, Polysantol® has been identified as the primary sandalwood component in Creed's Original Santal, used at approximately 0.85% in the finished fragrance, showcasing its efficiency at lower concentrations.

The compound's success catalyzed further research into campholenic aldehyde-derived sandalwood chemicals, leading to the development of related materials such as Javanol® (Givaudan, 2000) and contributing to a family of synthetic sandalwoods that have largely displaced natural sandalwood in commercial perfumery.

Olfactory Profile

Scent Family: Woody-Oriental / Sandalwood

Main Descriptors:

• Top notes: Diffusive opening with creamy, lactonic character

• Heart notes: Rich, smooth sandalwood with milky warmth and subtle musky facets

• Base notes: Persistent woody-sandalwood foundation with gentle cedarwood nuances

Intensity: High odor value with exceptional diffusivity (>2×10⁵), significantly more powerful than natural sandalwood oil

Tenacity: Outstanding longevity, lasting over 336-400 hours on smelling strips; maintains olfactory presence for up to 2 weeks on fabric

Volatility: Low volatility due to tertiary alcohol structure; functions across all fragrance phases despite being classified as a base note material. The compound's unique diffusivity allows it to influence top and heart notes while anchoring the base

Fixative Role: Excellent fixative properties that enhance the longevity of volatile floral and citrus notes while adding substantial depth to the overall composition

Related Materials

Explore complementary synthetic sandalwood molecules and woody materials:

• Javanol® - Constitutional isomer with similar structure, less milky character, higher power

• Ebanol (Matsunol) - Four times stronger than natural sandalwood

• Brahmanol® - Woody, tenacious sandalwood with slight musk nuance

• Bacdanol® - Powerful sandalwood with slight rose nuance

Applications in Fine Fragrance

Polysantol® serves multiple essential functions in modern perfumery:

Primary Applications:

• Sandalwood accords: Functions as primary sandalwood component or natural sandalwood modifier

• Oriental and gourmand perfumes: Provides warm, creamy woody foundation

• Modern woody bases: Essential structure-builder in contemporary woody-amber compositions

• Creamy florals: Enhances jasmine, tuberose, frangipani, and gardenia with lactonic depth

• Milky musks: Contributes smooth, skin-like warmth to musk compositions

Notable Pairings:

• Demonstrates strong synergistic behavior with Iso E Super®, Javanol®, Brahmanol®, and Ambrettolide

• Complements other sandalwood molecules (Sandalore®, Ebanol®, Bacdanol®) to create fuller, more complex sandalwood effects

• Works beautifully with creamy lactones, vanilla, tonka bean, and amber materials

• Harmonizes with modern woody-ambers and transparent musks

Typical Usage Levels:

• Fine fragrance: 0.5-3% in perfume compound (limited by IFRA restrictions in finished product)

• Functional fragrances: Higher concentrations possible due to excellent stability and bloom in surfactant systems

Historical Fragrance Examples:

• Samsara by Guerlain (1989): 9.5% overdose showcasing Polysantol's® power

• Original Santal by Creed: 0.85% in finished fragrance as primary sandalwood note

Performance in Formula

Polysantol® exhibits exceptional formulation characteristics. It is readily soluble in ethanol and other common perfumery solvents, demonstrating lipophilic behavior that ensures excellent incorporation into both alcohol and oil-based systems.

The compound shows good oxidative stability and maintains olfactory clarity even in challenging formulation environments, including high-surfactant systems such as shampoos, shower gels, and laundry products. Its stability in emulsions makes it particularly valuable for lotions and creams.

Performance characteristics include:

• Boiling point: Approximately 290°C

• Flash point: Greater than 100°C

• Diffusion: Pronounced bloom in soaps and shampoos with excellent burning performance in candles

• Stability: Less sensitive to pH changes than many naturals; maintains clarity in alkaline conditions

Industrial & Technical Uses

Beyond fine fragrance, Polysantol® finds extensive application in:

• Cosmetics and personal care: Creams, lotions, body care products, and hair care formulations (0.1-10%)

• Soaps and detergents: Excellent stability and bloom characteristics

• Functional perfumery: Industrial fragrances, air care, and home care applications

• Candles: Outstanding burning performance with consistent scent throw

Regulatory & Safety Overview

IFRA Status:

• Restricted material under IFRA Amendment 51 (notified June 30, 2023)

• Category 1 (Lip products): Maximum 0.031% in finished product

• Category 4 (Fine fragrance): Maximum 1.1% in finished product (some sources cite up to 4%)

• Full IFRA 51st Amendment Index available at: https://ifrafragrance.org/docs/default-source/51st-amendment/ifra-51st-amendment---index-of-ifra-standards.pdf

EU Cosmetics Regulation 1223/2009:

• Compliant for use in cosmetic products

• Not listed among the 26 declarable allergens

• No specific skin sensitization classification

ECHA Classification:

• H411: Toxic to aquatic life with long-lasting effects

• Not classified as a skin sensitizer or irritant

• REACH registered: Compliant with EU substance regulations

Environmental Considerations:

• Biodegradability: Not readily biodegradable

• Aquatic toxicity: H411 classification requires careful environmental stewardship

• Sustainability advantage: High odor value allows effective use at low concentrations, offsetting material volume concerns

Safety Profile:

• Generally well-tolerated in dermal applications

• No evidence of sensitization potential in human repeated insult patch tests

• Must be formulated with care to respect IFRA concentration limits and minimize environmental release

Storage & Handling:

• Store in tightly sealed containers away from light and heat

• Shelf life: ≥24 months under standard storage conditions

• Stable under normal use conditions

Sustainability & Environmental Impact

Origin: Fully synthetic, produced via chemical synthesis from campholenaldehyde

Ecological Benefit: Polysantol® plays a crucial role in reducing demand for natural Santalum album, which is ecologically sensitive and increasingly protected by international trade laws (CITES Appendix II listing). The widespread adoption of high-quality synthetic alternatives like Polysantol® has significantly reduced pressure on wild sandalwood populations.

Environmental Considerations: While not readily biodegradable and classified as toxic to aquatic life (H411), the compound's exceptional odor value means effective results can be achieved at relatively low concentrations, partially offsetting environmental concerns associated with its use.

Batch Consistency: Unlike natural sandalwood oil, which varies significantly in quality and composition depending on geographic origin, age of trees, and harvest methods, Polysantol® offers consistent batch-to-batch performance, reducing formulation waste and reformulation needs.

References

Firmenich. (1985). Polysantol® trademark registration (Brand N°497404). Swiss Federal Institute of Intellectual Property.

International Fragrance Association. (2023). IFRA Standards: 51st Amendment [Index of Standards]. Retrieved from https://ifrafragrance.org/docs/default-source/51st-amendment/ifra-51st-amendment---index-of-ifra-standards.pdf

Pybus, D. H., & Sell, C. S. (Eds.). (1999). The chemistry of fragrances: From perfumer to consumer. Cambridge: Royal Society of Chemistry.

Surburg, H., & Panten, J. (2006). Common fragrance and flavor materials: Preparation, properties and uses (5th ed.). Weinheim: Wiley-VCH. https://doi.org/10.1002/3527608214