Veramoss ™

Veramoss / (CAS 4707-47-5) Technical Ingredient Overview

• 🏭 Manufacturer — IFF (Veramoss) / Givaudan (Evernyl)

• 🔎 Chemical Name — Methyl 2,4-dihydroxy-3,6-dimethylbenzoate

• 🧪 Synonyms — Evernyl, Veramoss, Atraric Acid methyl ester, Oakmoss synthetic, Methyl atrarate

• 📂 CAS Number — 4707-47-5

• 📘 FEMA Number — N/A

• 🔢 EC Number — 225-193-0

• ⚖️ Molecular Weight — 196.20 g/mol

• 🔬 Molecular Formula — C₁₀H₁₂O₄

• 📝 Odor Type — Mossy, Powdery

• 📈 Odor Strength — High impact, extremely tenacious

• 👃🏼 Odor Profile — Dry oakmoss, phenolic, earthy, woody, powdery, clean mossy character

• ⚗️ Uses — Chypre and fougère accords, base note fixative

• 🧴 Appearance — White to off-white crystalline powder

Additional Physical Properties

• 🌡️ Melting Point — 142–145 °C

• 🔥 Boiling Point — N/A (Vapor pressure: ~0.000018 mmHg @ 23°C)

• 💧 Density — ~1.02 g/cm³

• 🔍 Refractive Index — N/A (Solid)

• 💧 Solubility — Soluble in DPG, IPM, and alcohol; poorly soluble in water

• 🔄 Specific Rotation — N/A

• ✅ Purity — 95.0% - 100.0%

• 🧬 Biogenic Carbon Content — Synthetic

• 🔥 Flash Point — 183 °C (361.4 °F)

• 🎯 Detection Threshold — 0.2473 ng/L in air

• 📊 Log P — 2.1

What is Veramoss?

Veramoss (also known widely by its Givaudan trade name, Evernyl) is a synthetic fragrance compound with a powerful mossy, woody, and phenolic aroma, reminiscent of natural oakmoss absolute. Chemically known as methyl 2,4-dihydroxy-3,6-dimethylbenzoate, it functions as a key material in modern fougère and chypre accords. Due to IFRA allergen restrictions on natural oakmoss extracts (specifically limiting atranol and chloroatranol), Veramoss has become an essential, compliant replacement for safe, long-lasting moss impressions in contemporary perfumery.

Historical Background

Atraric acid (methyl 2,4-dihydroxy-3,6-dimethylbenzoate) is a naturally occurring phenolic compound found in the bark of Pygeum africanum and, most notably for perfumery, in oakmoss (Evernia prunastri). It was identified as one of the key odorants responsible for the characteristic dry, mossy scent of oakmoss absolute.

The synthetic production of atraric acid methyl ester was pioneered by Roure Bertrand Dupont (now part of Givaudan), who commercialized it under the trade name Evernyl. IFF later introduced its own version under the name Veramoss. For decades, natural oakmoss remained the gold standard for chypre and fougère bases. However, in the early 2000s, rising concerns over contact sensitization led to IFRA imposing strict limits on atranol and chloroatranol — two potent allergens present in oakmoss extracts. The 43rd Amendment (2008) and subsequent revisions effectively made traditional oakmoss usage impractical in many formulations.

This regulatory shift made Veramoss/Evernyl indispensable. As a pure synthetic that contains no atranol or chloroatranol, it allowed perfumers to preserve the classic mossy-earthy backbone of Chypre and Fougère families while remaining fully IFRA-compliant. Today it is one of the most widely used moss replacers in the industry.

Olfactory Profile

• Scent Family

• Mossy / Woody

• Main Descriptors

• Dry oakmoss, phenolic, earthy, powdery, clean mossy, and slightly woody.

• Intensity

• Relatively subtle when evaluated directly out of the bottle (often perceived as low strength initially), but it exerts a powerful influence and high impact in blends.

• Tenacity

• Extremely tenacious, lasting > 360 hours on a smelling strip. Substantivity is excellent.

• Volatility

• Base note.

Applications in Fine Fragrance

Essential in modern chypre and fougère compositions as an IFRA-compliant replacement for oakmoss.

• Modern Chypre (0.1 - 2.0%) — Provides the essential mossy backbone to replace restricted natural oakmoss.

• Fougère (0.1 - 1.0%) — Adds the classic dry, earthy contrast to lavender, coumarin, and geranium.

• Powdery Floral (0.05 - 0.5%) — Gives facets and depth to floral notes, supporting violet, orris, and aldehydes.

Performance in Formula

• Fixative Power — Excellent fixative properties, heavily anchoring the base.

• Radiance Effect — Low initial projection but profound structural impact over time.

• Stability — Very good stability in shampoos, soaps, AP deodorants, and fine fragrances.

• Compatibility — Blends well with woods, musks, patchouli, and ambers.

• Solubility — Needs to be pre-dissolved (e.g., 10% in DPG or IPM) for ease of use since it is a crystalline powder.

Industrial & Technical Uses

• Functional Perfumery — Widely used in soaps, detergents, and AP deodorants due to its great stability.

• Personal Care — Shampoos, lotions, and body washes.

• Flavor Industry — Not commonly used in flavors. Not listed by FEMA for food flavoring applications.

• Cosmetics — Creams and powders.

Regulatory & Safety Overview

• IFRA Status

• Not restricted by IFRA (No restriction in category 4 under IFRA 51). Serves as a safe alternative to natural oakmoss.

• EU Cosmetics Regulation

• Permitted. Contains no atranol or chloroatranol. Not listed among the EU fragrance allergens.

• EU REACH

• Registered (EC 225-193-0).

• FEMA Status

• Not listed.

• GHS Classification

• Typically non-hazardous or low hazard under standard conditions.

Toxicology

• Sensitization — Non-sensitizing at typical use levels (avoids the sensitization issues of natural oakmoss).

• Phototoxicity — Non-phototoxic.

• General — Safe for use in cosmetics.

Environmental Considerations

• Biodegradability — Readily biodegradable.

• Bioaccumulation — Low bioaccumulation potential (Log P 2.1).

Sustainability Credentials

Veramoss/Evernyl is a fully synthetic molecule, which eliminates the environmental pressures associated with wild-harvesting oakmoss (Evernia prunastri) from forests in the Balkans and southern France. Its production is stabilizer-free and the molecule is readily biodegradable, aligning with modern green chemistry goals. By replacing natural oakmoss — whose harvest can impact lichen biodiversity — Veramoss offers a more sustainable supply chain with consistent quality and no seasonal variability.

Related Ingredients on Scentspiracy

Complementary Materials:

• Iso E Super — Adds a velvety, woody-amber halo that enhances the mossy drydown

• Patchouli Oil — Classic pairing in chypre bases, reinforcing earthy depth

• Coumarin — Essential fougère partner, bringing sweet hay-like warmth

• Labdanum Resinoid — Amplifies the ambery, leathery facets alongside moss

• Methyl Cedryl Ketone (Vertofix) — Woody fixative that extends and complements the mossy base