Vanilla (Bourbon) Tincture 20%

Technical Ingredient Overview

• 🏭 Manufacturer — Scentspiracy Innovation Lab

• 🔎 Chemical Name — Not applicable (natural mixture)

• 🧪 Synonyms — Vanilla tincture, Tinctura Vanillae, Alcoholic extract of Vanilla planifolia

• 📂 CAS — 8024-06-4 (Vanilla extract)

• 📘 FEMA — 3107

• ⚖️ MW — Not applicable (natural mixture)

• 📝 Odor Type — Balsamic, gourmand, spicy

• 📈 Odor Strength — Medium to high (depending on dosage and ethanol evaporation)

• 👃🏼 Odor Profile — Sweet, warm, creamy, woody, resinous, with subtle phenolic and tobacco undertones

• ⚗️ Uses — Natural perfumery, fine fragrance, gourmand accords, botanical colognes

• 🧴 Appearance — Amber-brown liquid, clear to slightly opalescent depending on storage

What is Vanilla (Bourbon) Tincture

Vanilla (Bourbon) tincture is a botanical extract derived from the cured pods of Vanilla planifolia Andrews, particularly from the renowned “Bourbon” variety grown in Madagascar, Réunion, and Comoros. This tincture is made by macerating chopped vanilla pods in food-grade ethanol to a final ratio of 20% vanilla solids by weight.

Unlike isolated vanillin, the tincture contains a broad aromatic spectrum, including vanillin, vanillic acid, p-hydroxybenzaldehyde, and trace resinoids that contribute to its rich, nuanced warmth.

Historical Background

The use of vanilla traces back to Aztec culture, where it was used in beverages such as xocolatl (Krieger, 1992). Its transition into European perfumery began in the 19th century, when naturalists and apothecaries explored ethanol-based tincturing as a stable and reproducible extraction method (Arctander, 1960).

The "Bourbon" cultivar — named after Île Bourbon (now Réunion Island) — was developed during French colonial agricultural efforts to propagate vanilla independently from Mexican pollinators, culminating in hand-pollination techniques by Edmond Albius in 1841 (Groom, 1992).

Olfactory Profile

Vanilla (Bourbon) tincture is a core material in the balsamic and gourmand olfactory families.

• Main notes: Creamy vanilla, soft wood, tobacco leaf, phenolic warmth

• Intensity: Moderate to high

• Volatility: Medium; ethanol gives fast lift, while vanilla resin notes persist

• Fixative role: Mild to moderate; excellent as a warm base enhancer

Applications in Fine Fragrance

This tincture is frequently used in:

• Oriental and amber bases

• Gourmand accords (e.g., with tonka, benzoin, cacao)

• Natural perfumery, where synthetics are restricted

• Pairing notes: Labdanum, vanillin, benzyl benzoate, heliotropin, tonka absolute, balsam of Peru

Performance in Formula

• Diffusion: Mild projection with excellent longevity on skin

• Impact: Soft, enveloping warmth

• Compatibility: Highly compatible with resins, balsams, lactones, and powdery synthetics

Industrial & Technical Uses

• Perfumery: Botanical perfumery, natural/organic-certified fragrances, eau de colognes

• Flavors: May be used (FEMA GRAS) in trace concentrations in foods and beverages

• Aromatherapy: Occasionally applied in mood-enhancing blends for calming effects

Regulatory & Safety Overview

• IFRA status: Not restricted in the 51st amendment (check for regional limitations) → IFRA Standards

• GHS Classification: Not hazardous under GHS when diluted below flammability threshold

• EU Cosmetics Regulation: Approved for use under EC No 1223/2009 (not listed in Annex II/III)

• FEMA GRAS: FEMA No. 3107

• Toxicology: Non-toxic at standard perfumery dilutions. Avoid eye and prolonged skin contact due to alcohol content. Patch test recommended in final formulation.

References

• Arctander, S. (1960). Perfume and Flavor Chemicals (Aroma Chemicals). Montclair: Published by the author.

• Groom, N. (1992). The Perfume Handbook. Springer.

• Krieger, R. I. (1992). Handbook of Ecotoxicology. CRC Press.

• IFRA. (2024). IFRA Standards 51st Amendment. Retrieved from https://ifrafragrance.org

• FEMA. (2022). Flavor and Extract Manufacturers Association. FEMA GRAS Number 3107.