Vertenex Lorysia PTBCHA fragrance ingredient molecule perfumery scentspiracy shop
vertenex -brow-perfumery-bottle-ingredient-scentspiracy.jpg
Vertenex Lorysia PTBCHA fragrance ingredient molecule perfumery scentspiracy shop
vertenex -brow-perfumery-bottle-ingredient-scentspiracy.jpg

Vertenex ®

€7.90
Sold Out

Premium Synthetic Woody-Iris Acetate

Vertenex (CAS 32210-23-4), chemically identified as 4-tert-butylcyclohexyl acetate, is a synthetic alicyclic ester developed by IFF and marketed under multiple trade names including Lorysia® (Firmenich premium grade). The molecule exists as cis/trans geometric isomers, with high-quality commercial versions emphasizing the cis-isomer for enhanced floral character. Its profile is defined by sweet woody-cedarwood notes with prominent powdery iris-orrisfacets and subtle fruity-apple undertones. Unlike sharp cedar derivatives, Vertenex delivers a soft, rounded woodiness that bridges natural cedarwood and violet-iris effects, offering clean laundry-like freshness without medicinal harshness.

Functionally, this material demonstrates good substantivity (approximately 8 hours on blotters) and operates as a heart-to-base note ingredient with moderate volatility. Its exceptional stability in alkaline systems (pH 8-11) makes it indispensable for functional perfumery—particularly soap, shampoo, and detergent formulations where natural materials degrade. Effective at trace levels for subtle enhancement or scalable to 8% for dominant woody-floral presence, Vertenex acts as a versatile blender and volume enhancer, creating seamless transitions between herbaceous top notes and woody-mossy bases without heaviness.

Get notified by email when this product is in stock.

Premium Synthetic Woody-Iris Acetate

Vertenex (CAS 32210-23-4), chemically identified as 4-tert-butylcyclohexyl acetate, is a synthetic alicyclic ester developed by IFF and marketed under multiple trade names including Lorysia® (Firmenich premium grade). The molecule exists as cis/trans geometric isomers, with high-quality commercial versions emphasizing the cis-isomer for enhanced floral character. Its profile is defined by sweet woody-cedarwood notes with prominent powdery iris-orrisfacets and subtle fruity-apple undertones. Unlike sharp cedar derivatives, Vertenex delivers a soft, rounded woodiness that bridges natural cedarwood and violet-iris effects, offering clean laundry-like freshness without medicinal harshness.

Functionally, this material demonstrates good substantivity (approximately 8 hours on blotters) and operates as a heart-to-base note ingredient with moderate volatility. Its exceptional stability in alkaline systems (pH 8-11) makes it indispensable for functional perfumery—particularly soap, shampoo, and detergent formulations where natural materials degrade. Effective at trace levels for subtle enhancement or scalable to 8% for dominant woody-floral presence, Vertenex acts as a versatile blender and volume enhancer, creating seamless transitions between herbaceous top notes and woody-mossy bases without heaviness.

Synthetic Ingredient Overview

  • 🏭 Manufacturer: Firmenich

  • 🔎 Chemical Name: 4-(1,1-Dimethylethyl)cyclohexyl acetate

  • 🧪 Synonyms: PTBCHA, LORYSIA®, Vertenex

  • 🧬 Chemical Formula: C₁₂H₂₂O₂

  • 📂 CAS N°: 32210-23-4

  • 📘 FEMA: Not listed

  • ⚖️ MW: 198.3 g/mol

  • 📝 Odor Type: Woody (classified as ambery by Scentspiracy)

  • 📈 Odor Strength: Medium

  • 👃🏼 Odor Profile: Clean, powdery iris; fresh laundry, woody (cedarwood, Iso E Super-like), with a hint of herbal-linalyl acetate.

  • 👅 Flavor Profile: Not for flavor use

  • ⚗️ Uses: Modifier, blender, and volume enhancer for woody, floral, and functional products

  • 🧴 Appearance: Colorless clear oily liquid

What is Vertenex?

Vertenex is a synthetic acetate ester belonging to the alicyclic fragrance family. Its molecular structure closely relates to other modern perfume materials designed to offer broad olfactory compatibility, stability, and volume. Originally developed for use in soaps and detergents, Vertenex’s stable and economical profile quickly gained favor across perfumery sectors. It is now recognized as one of the most widely adopted materials in industrial and fine fragrance formulations.

Its base structure and odor impact recall the soft ambery-woody elegance of Iso E Super while introducing a slightly fresher, floral-powdery edge reminiscent of ionones or linalyl esters.

Olfactory Profile & Perfumery Applications

Key Characteristics:

  • Fresh and slightly ambery

  • Powdery iris and "clean laundry" effect

  • Woody (soft cedar), subtly fruity-skin tone (not lactonic)

  • Herbal-ester undertone (like linalyl acetate)

Functional Roles:

  • Blender/Modifier: Vertenex is commonly used to smooth transitions between top, heart, and base notes.

  • Volume Enhancer: Ideal in low-cost formulations needing bulk and roundness.

  • Versatile Note Extender: Works in floral, woody, fougère, pine, and citrus blends.

  • Iris Effect Replicator: Offers a soft, powdery effect without the volatility of natural iris materials.

Common pairings:

  • Ionones and Methyl Ionone: Enhances powdery floral body

  • Cedarwood derivatives and Iso E Super: Amplifies clean woodiness

  • Linalyl acetate and herbals: Brings freshness to aromatic fougères

  • Coumarins and Tonka: Provides a cushioned, sweetened drydown

Usage is typical from 0.1% to 5% depending on application, especially in soap bases, detergents, and affordable EDTs.

Industrial and Technical Uses

Vertenex is used extensively in:

  • Bar soaps and body washes

  • Powder detergents and fabric softeners

  • Deodorants and functional sprays

  • Entry-level or mass-market EDTs and colognes

Its high alcohol, paraffin, and aqueous solubility, plus resistance to discoloration or degradation, makes it ideal for cost-efficient, stable formulation.

It is often the "invisible backbone" of many low-cost compositions that need volume, longevity, and a clean finishing note.

Regulatory & Safety Overview

  • IFRA 51st Amendment: No restriction listed

  • EU 26 Allergens: Not declarable

  • FEMA GRAS: Not listed for food use

  • ECHA Classification: Not classified as hazardous

  • Photostability: High

  • Stability: Excellent in alkaline and surfactant-rich formulations

✅ Safe and stable for use in soaps, home care, and skin-safe concentrations under standard perfumery guidelines.

Conclusion

Vertenex (PTBCHA, LORYSIA®) is a cornerstone of modern functional perfumery. Its clean, powdery floral-woody character combined with exceptional formulation stability and low cost has made it indispensable for perfumers working across soaps, florals, fougères, and commercial fragrance bases. Whether reinforcing the soft woodiness of Iso E Super or enhancing the iris-floral body of violet bases, Vertenex remains a proven material in high-volume and low-budget scent design.

Sources

  • PubChem Compound CID 36081 – 4-Tert-Butylcyclohexyl Acetate

  • Firmenich Technical Sheets

  • S. Arctander – Perfume and Flavor Chemicals

  • Scentspiracy Archive & In-House Formulary Notes (Fulvio Ciccolo)