Mousse Arbre ABS

Mousse Arbre Absolute (Treemoss Absolute) Technical Ingredient Overview

• 🏭 Manufacturer — IFF (International Flavors & Fragrances)

• 🔎 Chemical Name — Evernia furfuracea extract; Pseudevernia furfuracea extract

• 🧪 Synonyms — Tree moss extract, Treemoss absolute, Mousse d'arbre, Fir moss absolute, Pine moss extract

• 📂 CAS Number — 90028-67-4 (EINECS: 289-860-8); Alternative CAS: 68648-41-9 (TSCA)

• 📘 FEMA Number — Not applicable (not approved for flavor use)

• ⚖️ Molecular Weight — Not applicable (complex natural extract mixture)

• 📝 Odor Type — Woody, mossy, earthy

• 📈 Odor Strength — High to very high (varies by concentration and processing method)

• 👃🏼 Odor Profile — Intensely dry, woody, and earthy forest floor opening with pronounced leather and seaweed facets, evolving into complex phenolic-smoky nuances, finishing with warm tobacco, mushroomy-earthy undertones, and deep balsamic resins creating exceptional tenacity. Less refined and darker than oakmoss, with a more pronounced turpentine-like character.

• ⚗️ Uses — Base note fixative in fine fragrance, particularly essential for Chypre and Fougère compositions, masculine woody-leather fragrances, forest and undergrowth accords, tobacco notes, and functional perfumery applications

• 🧴 Appearance — Dark green to dark brown semi-solid to viscous liquid; petroleum ether extracts are typically more liquid and brownish-green, while benzene extracts are darker green and more viscous

What is Mousse Arbre Absolute?

Mousse Arbre Absolute, commonly known as Treemoss Absolute, is a natural aromatic extract obtained from lichens of the genus Pseudevernia, primarily Pseudevernia furfuracea (L.) Zopf (Parmeliaceae), formerly classified as Evernia furfuracea. Unlike oakmoss, which grows predominantly on oak trees, treemoss lichens are harvested from coniferous trees, particularly pines and firs, in the humid forests of central and southern Europe (Arctander, 1960).

Treemoss is a foliose lichen resulting from the symbiotic relationship between a fungus and an alga. The pale greenish-gray thallus, typically 3 to 8 cm in length, features a palmately branched structure with pointed tips. The upper surface is characteristically green and warty with pale gray reproductive bodies (soredia), while the undersurface displays a whitish coloration with a faint netlike pattern (Biolandes, 2022).

The commercial product is obtained through a two-stage extraction process: first, a concrete is produced by hydrocarbon solvent extraction (typically using petroleum ether, benzene, or cyclohexane mixtures), followed by alcohol extraction of the concrete to yield the absolute. The extraction yield from concrete to absolute is approximately 80%, with an overall extraction yield of about 3.5%—significantly higher than oakmoss at 1.5% (Arctander, 1960).

Historical Background

The use of treemoss in perfumery dates back to at least the 16th century, establishing it as one of the oldest natural raw materials in fragrance composition (Luminescents, 2021). The material gained particular prominence with the development of the Fougère fragrance family, initiated by Paul Parquet's creation of Fougère Royale for Houbigant in 1882, which revolutionized masculine perfumery.

Large-scale commercial harvesting and processing of treemoss developed significantly in France, particularly in the Grasse region, which became the center for moss extract production. By 1997, approximately 1,900 tons of treemoss were being processed annually in Grasse for the perfume industry (Wikipedia, 2025). The total quantities of oakmoss and treemoss collected annually in the Balkan countries, France, and Morocco exceeded 4,000 tons during peak production periods (Surburg & Panten, 2006).

Treemoss played a crucial role in creating some of the most iconic fragrances of the 20th century, including First(1976) by Van Cleef and Arpels, Coco (1984) by Chanel, and Polo Green (1978) by Ralph Lauren. These fragrances relied significantly on pure treemoss absolute for their distinctive character and longevity.

Historically, P. furfuracea was also used in ancient Egyptian embalming practices, where it was found packed into the body cavities of mummies, though it remains uncertain whether this was for preservative or aromatic properties (Wikipedia, 2025).

Olfactory Profile

Scent Family

Mossy-Woody: Classified within the earthy-mossy category with pronounced woody and leather facets

Main Descriptors

• Primary notes: Intensely dry, woody, earthy, forest floor

• Secondary notes: Pronounced leather, seaweed, phenolic-smoky; Tobacco, mushroomy-earthy, vanilla-like sweetness, balsamic resins

• Distinctive characteristics: More turpentine-like and tar-like than oakmoss, with a darker, less refined character

The olfactory profile of treemoss absolute is distinctly different from its cousin oakmoss (Evernia prunastri). Where oakmoss presents delicate topnotes with fresh seashore-like character, treemoss lacks this refined freshness. Instead, it offers a more pronounced woody-tar character with substantial phenolic depth (Arctander, 1960).

Intensity

Very High: Treemoss absolute is exceptionally powerful, requiring minimal dosage in compositions. Commercial dilutions (typically 10-15% in isopropyl myristate or similar carriers) are common to improve handling and ensure precise dosing.

Tenacity

Exceptional: As a base note material with outstanding fixative properties, treemoss absolute demonstrates remarkable longevity, lasting well over 400 hours on a smelling strip. Its fixative qualities anchor more volatile components and extend the overall persistence of fragrance compositions.

Volatility

Base Note: Extremely low volatility due to high molecular weight constituents including depsides, depsidones, and resin acids. The material functions almost exclusively in the base and dry-down phases of fragrance development.

Chemical Composition

The olfactory character derives from a complex mixture of secondary metabolites:

• Depsides: Including olivetoric acid, physodic acid, and various related compounds

• Depsidones: Such as atranorin and physodic acid derivatives

• Phenolic compounds: Resorcinol derivatives responsible for earthy-mossy character

• Triterpenes and steroids: Contributing to fixative properties

• Resin acids: Present in mixed lichen extracts, particularly cedar moss variants

The two naturally occurring chemotypes of P. furfuracea are distinguished by their secondary metabolite production: var. ceratea produces olivetoric acid and other physodic acids, while var. furfuracea produces physodic acid but not olivetoric acid (Joulain & Tabacchi, 2009).

Applications in Fine Fragrance

Treemoss absolute serves as an indispensable component in several classic fragrance families:

Chypre Compositions

In Chypre fragrances, treemoss provides the essential earthy-mossy foundation that defines this family, typically combined with bergamot, labdanum, and patchouli. While historically less prestigious than oakmoss in Chypre structures, treemoss offers comparable fixative properties with a drier, woodier character.

Fougère Structures

As a cornerstone of Fougère compositions since the late 19th century, treemoss combines with lavender, coumarin, and other aromatics to create the distinctive fresh-woody-mossy accord that characterizes this masculine fragrance family.

Masculine Fragrances

The pronounced leather, tobacco, and woody facets make treemoss particularly valuable in masculine woody-leather compositions, after-shaves, and colognes. Its less powdery effect compared to oakmoss provides drier, woodier facets ideal for men's fragrances (Biolandes, 2022).

Forest and Natural Accords

Treemoss excels in creating authentic forest floor notes and undergrowth accords, bringing natural complexity with its slightly animalic facets. It is particularly effective in fig reproductions and fruity notes requiring a natural, earthy grounding (Biolandes, 2022).

Pairing Behavior

Treemoss blends exceptionally well with:

• Woody notes: Patchouli, vetiver, cedarwood, pine, cypress

• Aromatic herbs: Lavender, clary sage, rosemary

• Resins: Labdanum, benzoin, galbanum

• Spices: Clove, cinnamon

• Animalic notes: Leather accords, castoreum

Performance in Formula

Treemoss absolute demonstrates excellent solubility in alcohol-based formulations, though some wax residues may cause slight turbidity in certain applications. The material is stable in eau de toilette formulations and various functional bases when properly processed (Biolandes, 2022).

Typical Usage Concentration: 0.01-0.1% in finished consumer products (subject to IFRA restrictions)

Dilution Recommendations: Due to its extreme viscosity and high concentration, treemoss absolute is often supplied in diluted form (10-15% in carriers such as isopropyl myristate, triethyl citrate, or dipropylene glycol) to facilitate handling and precise dosing.

Formulation Notes:

• Extremely viscous to semi-solid at room temperature; may require warming for handling

• Dark coloration limits use in light-colored products

• Acts as an excellent fixative, extending the longevity of top and middle notes

• Provides depth and complexity with minimal dosage

Industrial & Technical Uses

Beyond fine fragrance, treemoss absolute finds application in:

• Functional Perfumery: Industrial fragrances, soap perfumes, and air fresheners where cost-effective natural fixatives are desired

• Personal Care Products: Men's grooming products, after-shaves, and beard care formulations

• Home Fragrance: Candles and room sprays requiring natural forest and woody notes

• Traditional Medicine: In certain cultures, particularly in Andalusia, Spain, P. furfuracea is used for respiratory complaints, prepared as a decoction (Wikipedia, 2025)

• Biomonitoring: Due to its ability to bioaccumulate heavy metals, treemoss specimens are used as biomonitors for air quality assessment

Regulatory & Safety Overview

IFRA Status

Treemoss extracts (absolute, resinoid, concrete) are restricted under IFRA standards. As of Amendment 51, treemoss absolute is subject to specific limitations due to the presence of allergenic compounds atranol and chloroatranol.

Key Restrictions:

• Maximum combined level of atranol and chloroatranol: 100 ppm each in treemoss extracts

• Maximum use level in finished consumer products: 0.1% (when used alone or in combination with oakmoss)

• IFRA-compliant treemoss absolutes are processed to reduce allergen levels below specified thresholds

IFRA Standard Reference: IFRA Standards Library

EU Cosmetics Regulation

Treemoss extract is regulated under Annex III, Entry 92 of EU Regulation 1223/2009:

• Must be declared on cosmetic product labels when present above certain concentrations

• Subject to maximum concentration limits in finished products

• Atranol and chloroatranol are prohibited in cosmetic products under Amendment 2017/1410, though IFRA-compliant treemoss with reduced allergen levels below 100 ppm total is considered acceptable

Allergen Declaration Requirements

According to EU Cosmetics Regulation, treemoss extract must be labeled as EVERNIA FURFURACEA EXTRACTwhen present at concentrations:

• ≥0.001% in leave-on products

• ≥0.01% in rinse-off products

Toxicology

The primary safety concerns with treemoss absolute relate to contact sensitization potential. The Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety (SCCS) identified atranol and chloroatranol as the principal allergens responsible for sensitization reactions (SCCP, 2006).

Key Safety Data:

• Treemoss absolute demonstrated positive results in Local Lymph Node Assay (LLNA) studies

• Reduction of atranol and chloroatranol to <100 ppm significantly reduces allergenic potential

• Contact allergy prevalence is lower than oakmoss but requires appropriate formulation practices

• No acute toxicity concerns at recommended use levels

Handling Precautions:

• Avoid skin contact with undiluted material

• Not recommended during pregnancy

• Keep away from children and pets

• Use in well-ventilated areas

Manufacturing and Quality Considerations

Extraction Process

The production of treemoss absolute involves multiple stages:

1. Harvesting: Manual collection from coniferous trees in central and southern Europe (France, Italy, Spain, Morocco, Yugoslavia, Hungary, Czechoslovakia)

2. Pre-treatment: Lichens are often soaked in lukewarm water for 24 hours prior to extraction to facilitate the process, though this changes extract quality

3. Concrete Production: Extraction with hydrocarbon solvents (petroleum ether, benzene, or cyclohexane/isopropanol mixtures) in three successive washings

4. Absolute Production: Alcohol washing of concrete removes waxes, yielding the absolute

5. Allergen Reduction: Additional processing steps to reduce atranol and chloroatranol levels for IFRA compliance

Quality Variations

Treemoss quality varies significantly based on:

• Source location: Geographic origin affects chemical composition

• Lichen species mix: Pure P. furfuracea vs. mixtures with Usnea barbata (cedar moss variants)

• Extraction method: Cold vs. hot extraction; solvent selection

• Processing technique: Level of allergen reduction treatment

Adulteration and Authentication

Common adulterants include:

• Seaweed extracts (Fucus species)

• Synthetic moss-like compounds (e.g., Evernyl®, Veramoss®)

• Lower-quality lichen extracts from other species

• Dilution with high-boiling solvents without declaration

Synthetic Alternatives

Due to regulatory constraints, several synthetic alternatives have been developed:

• Evernyl® (Methyl 2,4-dihydroxy-3,6-dimethylbenzoate): Provides clean mossy notes without restrictions

• Veramoss®: Synthetic moss accord for Chypre and Fougère compositions

• Various proprietary captive molecules: Developed by major fragrance houses

References

• Arctander, S. (1960). Perfume and flavor materials of natural origin. Elizabeth, NJ: Arctander.

• Biolandes. (2022). Treemoss product information. Retrieved from https://www.biolandes.com/en/product/treemoss/

• Joulain, D., & Tabacchi, R. (2009). Lichen extracts as raw materials in perfumery. Part 2: Treemoss. Flavour and Fragrance Journal, 24(3), 105-116. https://doi.org/10.1002/ffj.1916

• Luminescents. (2021). Treemoss absolute oil product information. Retrieved from https://www.luminescents.net/

• Scientific Committee on Consumer Products (SCCP). (2006). Opinion on oakmoss and treemoss (SCCP/0131/06). European Commission.

• Singh, G., Armaleo, D., Dal Grande, F., & Schmitt, I. (2021). Depside and depsidone synthesis in lichenized fungi comes into focus through a genome-wide comparison of the olivetoric acid and physodic acid chemotypes of Pseudevernia furfuracea. Biomolecules, 11(10), 1445. https://doi.org/10.3390/biom11101445

• Surburg, H., & Panten, J. (2006). Common fragrance and flavor materials: Preparation, properties and uses (5th ed.). Weinheim: Wiley-VCH.

• Wikipedia. (2025). Pseudevernia furfuracea. Retrieved from https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pseudevernia_furfuracea