Lisylang (Ylang-Ylang fraction)

LISYLANG Technical Ingredient Overview

• 🏭 Manufacturer — Robertet

• 🔎 Chemical Name — Cananga odorata flower oil (Ylang-ylang derivative blend)

• 🧪 Synonyms — Modified ylang-ylang oil, ylang-ylang derivative, cananga oil derivative

• 📂 CAS Number — 8006-81-3

• 📘 FEMA Number — 2119 (ylang-ylang oil)

• 📝 Odor Type — Floral, Exotic, Spicy

• 📈 Odor Strength — Strong to Very Strong

• 👃🏼 Odor Profile — Delicate and floral top notes with spicy facets, lily, jasmine nuances, gourmand coconut milk character, monoi accents, and a rich, diffusive trail combining exotic white florals with modern floral characteristics

• ⚗️ Uses — Fine fragrance composition, exotic floral accords, white floral blends, modern floral constructions, body and diffusion enhancement in perfumery

• 🧴 Appearance — Pale yellow to yellow liquid (typical for ylang-ylang derivatives)

What is LISYLANG?

LISYLANG is a proprietary fragrance ingredient developed by Robertet, representing a specialized derivative or modification of ylang-ylang (Cananga odorata) essential oil. Unlike standard ylang-ylang oil, LISYLANG has been specifically formulated to emphasize delicate floral top notes while maintaining the characteristic exotic, spicy depth associated with ylang-ylang, enhanced with gourmand coconut milk and monoi facets (Robertet, n.d.). This creates a modern interpretation of traditional ylang-ylang that offers perfumers enhanced versatility in contemporary floral compositions.

The ingredient falls within the classification of modified natural essential oils, where traditional botanical extracts are processed or blended to achieve specific olfactory profiles and performance characteristics. LISYLANG maintains the fundamental chemistry of Cananga odorata while presenting a refined sensory experience designed for modern perfumery applications.

Historical Background

Origins of Ylang-Ylang

The Cananga odorata tree, from which ylang-ylang essential oil is derived, is native to the Philippines and grows throughout tropical Asia (Robertet, n.d.). English botanist John Ray (1628-1705) was the first European to document ylang-ylang, initially calling it “Arbor sanguisant,” with subsequent botanical names including “Borga cananga” and “Unona odorata” (Robertet, n.d.).

Introduction to Global Markets

The cultivation and commercialization of ylang-ylang followed a distinctive geographic trajectory:

• 1866: French pharmacist Guibourt documented the plant in Histoire naturelle des drogues simples (Natural History of Simple Drugs), comparing its fragrance to narcissus (Robertet, n.d.)

• 1884: Introduction to Bourbon Island (now Réunion), followed by cultivation in Madagascar, Mayotte, and near Tahiti (Robertet, n.d.)

• Pre-World War I: The Philippines emerged as the center of ylang-ylang essential oil production, with a German pharmacist establishing the first pharmacy in Manila’s fashionable district, popularizing the oil among high society (Robertet, n.d.)

• Post-World War I: Production shifted to French islands in the Indian Ocean to meet the demands of French perfumers (Robertet, n.d.)

• 1920s: Peak production in the Comoro Islands, which produced 90% of global ylang-ylang essential oil with 1.2 million trees (Robertet, n.d.). Coco Chanel likely sourced ylang-ylang from the Comoro Islands during this period as Philippine production had substantially decreased (Robertet, n.d.)

Modern Developments

Recent decades have seen changes in the ylang-ylang market, with the introduction of C. odorata macrophylla (cananga) from Java offering a more abundant but lower-quality alternative used in soaps and lower-grade cosmetics (Robertet, n.d.). LISYLANG represents Robertet’s innovation in refining and modernizing ylang-ylang for contemporary perfumery needs.

Olfactory Profile

Scent Family

• Primary: Floral (Exotic White Floral)

• Secondary: Spicy, Oriental

Main Descriptors

LISYLANG presents a complex olfactory architecture combining:

• Top Notes: Delicate and refined floral character, lighter than traditional ylang-ylang

• Heart Notes:

  • Spicy facets reminiscent of clove and cinnamon

  • Lily and jasmine nuances providing white floral sophistication

  • Gourmand coconut milk character adding creamy sweetness

  • Monoi accords (coconut oil-infused flowers) contributing tropical warmth

• Base Notes: Rich, diffusive trail with exotic, modern floral persistence

Intensity

Strong to very strong odor impact with notable diffusion properties. LISYLANG brings “power and body” to compositions while maintaining a refined, non-overwhelming presence (Robertet, n.d.).

Tenacity

High persistence typical of ylang-ylang derivatives, with the rich trail providing extended longevity on skin and fabric substrates.

Volatility

• Evaporation Rate: Middle to base note behavior

• Classification: Heart-to-base ingredient

• Diffusion: High diffusivity contributing to projection and sillage in finished fragrances

Fixative Role

Functions as a natural fixative, contributing to the stability and longevity of volatile top notes while adding substantive body to the overall composition. The ingredient’s molecular complexity provides multiple retention points for enhancing fragrance persistence.

Applications in Fine Fragrance

LISYLANG serves multiple roles in contemporary perfumery:

• White Floral Compositions: Core ingredient for modern white floral constructions, offering jasmine and lily facets without the narcotic heaviness of traditional ylang-ylang

• Exotic Accords: Essential for tropical, island-inspired, and monoi-type fragrances

• Oriental Fragrances: Provides spicy, warm floral foundation in oriental constructions

• Gourmand Creations: Coconut milk character bridges floral and gourmand categories

Typical Pairings

• Complementary Florals: Jasmine, tuberose, gardenia, frangipani, tiare flower

• Spice Elements: Vanilla, tonka bean, benzoin, sandalwood

• Tropical Notes: Coconut, hibiscus, monoi, heliotrope

• Modern Musks: Clean musks, cashmeran, ambroxan for contemporary structures

Performance in Formula

Behavior in Blends

LISYLANG demonstrates excellent blending characteristics:

• Diffusion Enhancement: Amplifies the projection of companion ingredients without dominating the composition

• Body Building: Adds substantive depth and richness to lightweight florals

• Smoothing Effect: Rounds sharp edges of synthetic components while maintaining clarity

Stability

Natural essential oil derivatives may be sensitive to:

• Oxidation upon prolonged air exposure

• High temperatures during storage

• UV light degradation

• pH extremes in certain formula types

Proper storage in amber glass, cool conditions, and inert atmosphere is recommended for maintaining olfactory integrity.

Industrial & Technical Uses

Beyond fine fragrance applications, ylang-ylang derivatives including LISYLANG may find use in:

• Fine Toiletries: Luxury soaps, body washes, and bath products

• Hair Care: Shampoos and conditioners, reflecting historical use of ylang-ylang for hair health

• Aromatherapy: Wellness and spa products capitalizing on traditional cultural associations

• Home Fragrance: Candles and diffusers requiring exotic floral character

Regulatory & Safety Overview

IFRA Status

Ylang-ylang oil (CAS 8006-81-3) is regulated under IFRA Standards due to its natural sensitizer content. As of IFRA Amendment 51, ylang-ylang oil is subject to:

• Restrictions based on sensitization potential from components including linalool, benzyl benzoate, benzyl salicylate, and geraniol

• Category-specific usage limits depending on product type and consumer exposure

• Proper allergen declaration requirements per EU Cosmetics Regulation

Official IFRA Documentation: IFRA Standards Library

EU Cosmetics Regulation

Under EU Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009, ylang-ylang oil derivatives require:

• Declaration of 26 allergens if present above threshold limits (0.001% in leave-on products, 0.01% in rinse-off products)

• Compliance with allergen labeling for components such as linalool, geraniol, benzyl benzoate, benzyl salicylate, farnesol, and eugenol

• Adherence to Good Manufacturing Practices (GMP) for cosmetic ingredients

FEMA Status

Ylang-ylang oil holds FEMA GRAS status (FEMA 2119) for use in flavoring applications, indicating recognition as Generally Recognized As Safe when used within specified limits in food products.

Toxicology

Ylang-ylang oil and its derivatives have been extensively studied:

• Skin Sensitization: Known potential for allergic contact dermatitis in susceptible individuals, primarily attributed to oxidized components

• Photosensitivity: Minimal phototoxic potential compared to citrus oils

• Systemic Toxicity: Low acute toxicity with no significant concerns at typical use levels in cosmetic and fragrance applications

Safety Recommendation: Patch testing recommended for individuals with known fragrance sensitivities. Proper formulation practices should account for potential sensitization through appropriate usage levels and allergen management.

References

• Robertet. (n.d.). LISYLANG technical documentation.

• Foto di rminedaisy su Unsplash

• PubChem Compound Database. (n.d.). Ylang ylang oil. National Center for Biotechnology Information. https://pubchem.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/compound/Ylang-ylang-oil

• International Fragrance Association. (n.d.). IFRA standards library. https://ifrafragrance.org/safe-use/library

• European Commission. (2009). Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009 on cosmetic products. https://ec.europa.eu/growth/sectors/cosmetics/legislation_en