Molecular structure of Herbavert, a synthetic perfumery compound with the formula 3,3,5-trimethyl cyclohexyl-ethyl-ether, used for its green, fruity herbal notes.
Herbavert-brow-perfumery-bottle-base-scentspiracy.jpg
Molecular structure of Herbavert, a synthetic perfumery compound with the formula 3,3,5-trimethyl cyclohexyl-ethyl-ether, used for its green, fruity herbal notes.
Herbavert-brow-perfumery-bottle-base-scentspiracy.jpg

Herbavert

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Herbavert (CAS 67583-77-1) is a synthetic ether compound developed by Kao Chemicals, presented publicly at the World Perfumery Congress (WPC) 2018. It has a high-impact fresh character with evolving facets that transition from sparkling green and camphoraceous top notes to fruity-apple and soft floral tones in drydown.

With a molecular structure classified as a substituted cyclohexyl ether, it offers high diffusion, short persistence, and versatile functionality in herbal, fruity, and fougère-type compositions.

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Premium Synthetic Ingredient for Perfumery

Herbavert (CAS 67583-77-1) is a synthetic ether compound developed by Kao Chemicals, presented publicly at the World Perfumery Congress (WPC) 2018. It has a high-impact fresh character with evolving facets that transition from sparkling green and camphoraceous top notes to fruity-apple and soft floral tones in drydown.

With a molecular structure classified as a substituted cyclohexyl ether, it offers high diffusion, short persistence, and versatile functionality in herbal, fruity, and fougère-type compositions.

Technical Ingredient Overview

  • 🏭 Manufacturer — Kao Corporation (Kao Chemicals Europe)

  • 🔎 Chemical Name — 3-Ethoxy-1,1,5-trimethylcyclohexane

  • 🧪 Synonyms — Herbavert, 3,3,5-Trimethylcyclohexyl ethyl ether, Ethyl 3,3,5-trimethylcyclohexyl ether, Herbal cyclohexane

  • 📂 CAS Number — 67583-77-1

  • 📘 FEMA Number — Not registered (not approved for flavor use)

  • 🧬 Chemical Formula — C₁₁H₂₂O

  • ⚖️ Molecular Weight — 170.29 g/mol

  • 📝 Odor Type — Fresh, Green, Herbal

  • 📈 Odor Strength — High impact on top note; Medium overall strength

  • 👃🏼 Odor Profile — Sparkling fresh, diffusive, rubbery-camphoraceous, mentholic, herbal-green with dynamic evolution to fruity apple-floral and soft rosy nuances in drydown

  • ⚗️ Uses — Herbal note booster, floral-fruity top note enhancer, fougère modifier, aromatic compositions, functional perfumery

  • 🧴 Appearance — Clear, colorless liquid

What is Herbavert?

Herbavert is a synthetic fragrance ingredient belonging to the alicyclic ether chemical family, specifically classified as a substituted cyclohexyl ether. Developed and commercialized by Kao Corporation through their specialty chemicals division, it represents a modern approach to creating fresh, green olfactory effects without relying on traditional terpene-based materials. The molecule features a cyclohexane ring system substituted with three methyl groups at positions 1, 1, and 5, and an ethoxy group at position 3, creating a conformationally flexible structure that contributes to its unique olfactory evolution (Bauer, Garbe, & Surburg, 2001).

Unlike naturally occurring green materials such as cis-3-hexenol or leaf aldehydes, Herbavert offers superior stability in alkaline and oxidative environments, making it particularly valuable for functional perfumery applications where traditional green materials might degrade. The molecule's synthetic origin allows for consistent batch-to-batch quality and eliminates seasonal availability concerns associated with natural extracts.

Historical Background

Herbavert was first introduced to the international fragrance community at the World Perfumery Congress (WPC) held in Nice, France, in 2018. The material was presented by Kao Chemicals as part of their expanding portfolio of specialty fragrance ingredients designed specifically for modern perfumery challenges, particularly in the functional and fine fragrance sectors requiring high diffusion, short-lived top notes, and compatibility with diverse product matrices.

The development of Herbavert reflects Kao Corporation's broader commitment to innovation in sustainable chemistry and biodegradable specialty chemicals. As of 2025, the material remains proprietary to Kao, with production centered at their European facilities. The introduction of Herbavert coincided with increasing industry demand for fresh, natural-feeling top notes that maintain performance in challenging formulation environments such as high-pH detergents and oxidative bleach systems.

While specific patent information for Herbavert's synthesis route has not been publicly disclosed in accessible literature, the molecule's structural design suggests influences from earlier work on cyclohexyl ether fragrance materials, including research on cyclohexyl phenethyl ethers and related substituted cyclohexane derivatives explored in the late 20th century for their fixative and aromatic properties.

Olfactory Profile

Scent Family

  • Primary Classification: Fresh Green / Herbal

  • Secondary Classification: Fruity-Floral. Camphoraceous, Mentholic

Main Descriptors

Herbavert exhibits a complex, multi-phase olfactory profile that evolves significantly over time:

Initial Phase (0-8 minutes):

  • Sparkling, diffusive freshness

  • Rubbery-camphoraceous brightness

  • Mentholic coolness (without tactile cooling effect)

  • Cineole-like herbal green character

  • High volatility and strong projection

Middle Phase (8-20 minutes):

  • Transition to softer herbal-green profile

  • Reduction in camphoraceous aspect

  • Emergence of natural vegetative notes

  • Maintained diffusion with decreasing intensity

Late Phase (20-90 minutes):

  • Dominant sweet fruity character

  • Apple blossom reminiscent accord

  • Soft rosy-floral nuances

  • Similarity to materials like Verdox (Givaudan) in the drydown

  • Gradual fade to clean, subtle finish

This dynamic evolution distinguishes Herbavert from static green materials and makes it particularly valuable for compositions requiring olfactory interest throughout the evaporation cycle.

Intensity

  • Top Note Impact: Very High (powerful initial diffusion)

  • Overall Strength: Medium to Medium-High

  • Detection Threshold: Not published; estimated to be in the low ppb range based on diffusion characteristics

  • Substantivity: Low to Medium (~90 minutes on blotter)

Tenacity

  • Longevity on Blotter: Approximately 90 minutes to 2 hours

  • Performance Class: Top note with brief heart note contribution

  • Fixative Value: Minimal; not recommended as a fixative material

  • Persistence in Formula: Enhanced when combined with less volatile materials

Volatility

  • Classification: High volatility

  • Note Position: Primarily top note with transient heart note qualities

  • Evaporation Rate: Rapid initial evaporation with gradual tapering

  • Comparative Volatility: Similar to cineole, faster than linalool, slower than dihydromyrcenol

Applications in Fine Fragrance

Herbavert finds diverse applications across fragrance categories, particularly where fresh, natural-feeling green notes are desired without the potential instability of leaf alcohols or aldehydes.

Role in Fragrance Compositions

Primary Functions:

  • Top Note Amplifier: Enhances brightness and diffusion of opening accords

  • Green Modifier: Adds natural, vegetative freshness to floral and fruity themes

  • Freshness Booster: Provides immediate impact in aromatic fougère structures

  • Transition Agent: Facilitates smooth evolution from top to heart notes through its own dynamic profile

Typical Usage Levels:

  • Fine Fragrance: 0.5-3% of the concentrate

  • Functional Fragrance: 1-5% of the concentrate

  • Soap/Detergent: Up to 5% depending on application

Typical Accords and Combinations

Herbavert demonstrates excellent compatibility and synergy with multiple fragrance families:

Green-Fresh Accords:

  • Liffarome + Herbavert (1:1): Sparkling vegetable-green tone with enhanced diffusion

  • Rose Oxide + Herbavert (1:1): Fresh rosebud nuance with metallic-green brightness

  • Violet Leaf Absolute + Herbavert (10:1): Natural cucumber-green depth with fruity lift

Fougère and Aromatic Systems:

  • Iso Bornyl Acetate + Herbavert (4:1): Bright, soft floral-herbal opening

  • Menthol + Herbavert (9:1): Balanced fresh-sweet contrast without excessive cooling

  • Terpinyl Acetate + Herbavert (19:1): Sweet-aromatic opening with bergamot-like character

  • Tetrahydrogeraniol + Herbavert (9:1): Fresh floral uplift with rosy undertones

  • Terpineol + Herbavert (19:1): Sweet lime-like impression with herbal complexity

Fruity Accords:

  • Verdox + Herbavert (4:1): Juicy apple-peel effect with enhanced realism

  • Hedione + Herbavert (20:1): Transparent floral-fruity with jasmine nuances

  • Linalool + Herbavert (10:1): Soft lavender-fruity with increased freshness

Floral Structures:

  • Muguet (Lily of the Valley) compositions

  • Apple blossom accords

  • Fresh rose top notes

  • Hyacinth and narcissus themes

Performance in Formula

Behavior in Blends and Mixtures

Chemical Stability:

  • Excellent stability in alcoholic solutions (ethanol-based perfumes)

  • Good stability in dipropylene glycol (DPG) and related solvents

  • Compatible with most synthetic aroma chemicals

  • No known reactivity with common fragrance ingredients

pH Tolerance:

  • Excellent: pH 7-13 (neutral to alkaline)

  • Good: pH 5-7 (mildly acidic)

  • Poor: pH <4 (strongly acidic systems)

Oxidative Stability:

  • Excellent resistance to oxidation in the presence of:

    • Perborate-based detergents

    • Peroxide systems

    • Chlorine bleach (at appropriate concentrations)

Thermal Stability:

  • Stable under normal storage conditions (15-25°C)

  • Maintains integrity during standard heating processes in formulation

  • No significant degradation observed in accelerated aging studies under normal conditions

Impact on Overall Composition

Diffusion and Projection:

  • Significantly increases the perceived diffusion radius of a composition

  • Creates an immediate olfactory presence ("first impression" impact)

  • Enhances the "naturalness" perception of green-floral fragrances

Blending Smoothness:

  • Acts as a "blender" for disparate notes

  • Softens transitions between contrasting olfactory elements

  • Reduces the "sharpness" of certain aldehydes and nitriles

Perceived Quality:

  • Contributes to a modern, clean aesthetic

  • Provides a "premium" feeling through its complexity and evolution

  • Supports naturalistic fragrance concepts

Industrial & Technical Uses

Non-Fragrance Applications

While Herbavert is specifically designed for perfumery, its chemical structure and properties make it theoretically suitable for:

  • Flavor applications (though not FEMA-approved)

  • Odor masking in industrial products

  • Research applications in olfactory neuroscience

Industrial Processes and Functions

Functional Perfumery:

Herbavert demonstrates exceptional performance across diverse product categories:

Excellent Stability:

  • Heavy-duty laundry detergents (perborate-based systems)

  • Light-duty powder detergents (peroxide-based)

  • Abrasive cleaners and multi-purpose cleaning formulations

  • Automatic dishwashing detergents (high pH, high temperature)

Good Stability:

  • Chlorinated dish liquids (moderate chlorine concentrations)

  • Fabric softeners (cationic surfactant systems)

  • Alkaline hard surface cleaners (pH 10-13)

  • Industrial degreasers

Moderate Stability (data pending full validation):

  • Shampoos and hair care (pH 5-7)

  • Soap bars (pH 8-10)

  • Body washes (pH 5.5-7)

Not Recommended:

  • Strongly acidic systems (pH <4)

  • Products containing high concentrations of strong oxidizing agents beyond normal use levels

  • Heat-activated systems exceeding 60°C for prolonged periods

Technical Specifications and Requirements

Storage Recommendations:

  • Store in tightly closed containers

  • Ambient temperature range: 15-25°C

  • Protect from direct sunlight

  • Avoid prolonged exposure to strong acids

  • Shelf life: 24 months under recommended conditions

Handling Precautions:

  • Standard perfumery lab safety protocols apply

  • Adequate ventilation recommended during blending

  • Avoid skin and eye contact (standard GMP practices)

  • No special protective equipment required beyond standard lab coat and safety glasses

Quality Control Parameters:

  • Purity: ≥95% by GC

  • Appearance: Clear, colorless liquid

  • Odor: Characteristic fresh, green, herbal

  • Specific gravity: Not published (estimated 0.90-0.95 at 20°C)

  • Refractive index: Not published

Regulatory & Safety Overview

IFRA Status

  • IFRA Amendment 51 Classification: No restrictions under standard use conditions

  • Usage Levels: No maximum concentration limits specified by IFRA

  • Product Categories: Approved for all fragrance product categories per IFRA standards

  • Special Considerations: None required

Note: Always verify current IFRA standards at https://ifrafragrance.org/priorities/ingredients/ifra-transparency-list as amendments are periodically updated.

EU Cosmetics Regulation

  • EC Number: 266-722-5

  • REACH Status: Not classified as hazardous under REACH Regulation (EC) No 1907/2006

  • CosIng Database: Listed for use in cosmetic products

  • Allergen Declaration: Not required to be listed on cosmetic labels (not among the 26 regulated fragrance allergens)

FEMA Status

  • FEMA Number: Not assigned

  • GRAS Status: Not affirmed; not approved for food or flavor use

  • Regulatory Position: Herbavert is intended solely for fragrance applications and should not be used in flavor or food contact applications

Toxicology

Safety Profile (based on available data):

  • No evidence of skin sensitization in standard testing protocols

  • No irritation concerns reported in normal use concentrations

  • No mutagenic or genotoxic effects observed in preliminary screening

  • Routine safety testing by Kao Chemicals prior to commercialization

Recommended Safety Practices:

  • Follow standard good manufacturing practices (GMP) for fragrance ingredients

  • Maintain adequate ventilation in formulation areas

  • Use standard personal protective equipment (lab coat, safety glasses)

  • Avoid prolonged or repeated skin contact with undiluted material

  • Consult Safety Data Sheet (SDS) for complete safety information

Regulatory Compliance:

  • Complies with EU Cosmetics Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009

  • Meets IFRA Standards for safe use in fragrance applications

  • Suitable for products intended for export to major markets (US, EU, Asia)

Industry Trends and Sustainability

Market Trends

Herbavert aligns with several current industry trends:

Consumer Preferences:

  • Demand for "natural-feeling" synthetic ingredients

  • Interest in fresh, clean fragrance profiles

  • Preference for transparent, recognizable scent signatures in functional products

Formulation Trends:

  • Shift toward high-performance materials for functional perfumery

  • Need for stable ingredients in increasingly complex product matrices

  • Focus on short-cycle freshness with extended olfactory interest

Regulatory Environment:

  • Increasing scrutiny on natural materials (allergen content, sustainability)

  • Preference for well-characterized synthetic materials with clear safety profiles

  • Industry movement toward full transparency and ingredient disclosure

Sustainability Considerations

Environmental Profile:

  • Synthetic origin eliminates pressure on natural resources

  • Biodegradability expected based on structural characteristics (aliphatic ether)

  • Production through established chemical synthesis routes

Kao Corporation Commitment: Kao Chemicals emphasizes sustainable chemistry and environmental responsibility, actively promoting:

  • Use of biodegradable ingredients from renewable sources where possible

  • Alternative technologies for long-lasting fragrance delivery

  • Life cycle thinking in product development

Future Outlook: As the fragrance industry continues to balance performance, safety, and environmental impact, materials like Herbavert that offer high performance with good stability and a favorable safety profile are likely to see continued adoption, particularly in functional fragrance applications where traditional natural materials face stability challenges.

Sources

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