Helvetolide

Synthetic Ingredient Overview

• 🏭 Manufacturer: Firmenich

• 🔎 Chemical Name: 6-Cyclohexadecen-1-one, 3-(3,3-dimethyl-1,2-butadienyl)-, (3Z)-

• 🧪 Synonyms: Helvetolide, Musk Helvetolide, (3Z)-6-Cyclohexadecen-1-one derivative

• 🧬 Chemical Formula: C₁₈H₃₂O

• 📂 CAS N°: 141773-73-1

• 📘 FEMA: Not listed (not for flavor use)

• ⚖️ MW: 284.45 g/mol

• 📝 Odor Type: Musk (Macrocyclic)

• 📈 Odor Strength: Medium (high persistence; up to 2 weeks on blotter)

• 👃🏼 Odor Profile: Soft, modern musk with fruity-pear facet; reminiscent of ambrette seed

• ⚗️ Uses: Fixative, Floral Modifier, Top-to-Base Musk Support

• 🧴 Appearance: Colorless to pale yellow liquid

What is Helvetolide?

Helvetolide is a macrocyclic musk introduced by Firmenich, positioned olfactively between Ambrettolide and Musk T (Ethylene Brassylate). Its molecular structure includes a cyclohexadecenone backbone and a dimethylbutadienyl side chain, contributing to both muskiness and fruity brightness.

This alicyclic ketone musk is one of the few that impacts the top note, providing lift and clarity early in evaporation, while ensuring a persistent drydown typical of macrocyclic musks. It is especially well-suited to fine fragrance and functional formulations, including shampoos, emulsions, and alcohol-based scents.

Olfactory Profile & Perfumery Applications

Helvetolide is characterized by a soft musky base and a clean fruity-pear overtone. It evokes the natural smell of ambrette seeds, bridging musk and fruit notes in a refined way.

Fragrance design roles:

• Smooths out sharp floral or fruity top notes

• Acts as a radiant fixative without heaviness

• Supports musk accords in blends with Exaltolide, Habanolide, or Serenolide

• Enhances skin scent impressions in fine fragrance and body care

Commonly used in:

• Floral musks (rose, peony, ylang)

• Fruity compositions (pear, lychee, apricot)

• Skin musks, laundry-style perfumes, modern gourmands

Suggested internal link: See The Musks: An Insight for classification and comparison.

Industrial & Technical Uses

Helvetolide’s solubility and versatility make it compatible with:

• Alcohol-based perfumes

• Emulsions (e.g., creams, lotions)

• Shampoo and hair care

• Body washes and mild surfactant systems

It performs exceptionally in leave-on and rinse-off formats without breakdown or olfactory flattening.

Regulatory & Safety Overview

• IFRA Classification: Permitted with standard usage limits (category-specific)

• ECHA REACH: Not classified as hazardous

• GRAS Status: Not permitted for flavor use

• Toxicology: No reported sensitization under recommended usage

• Biodegradability: Acceptable macrocyclic environmental profile compared to polycyclic musks

• Stability: Stable in ethanol and aqueous emulsions

Standard handling procedures apply. Always check IFRA updates for category-specific limits.

Additional Information

• Firmenich named Helvetolide in honor of the Helvetic Confederation (Switzerland), reflecting their Swiss origin.

• Considered a modern classic for clean musk blocks that retain sensuality.

• Supports olfactory lift while maintaining elegance in drydown.

• Best used in synergy with macrocyclic enhancers like Exaltolide or Serenolide.

Comparison Tip: Think of Helvetolide as a musky-pear alternative to the more floral Ambrettolide or the more base-heavy Musk T.

Sources

• User-provided source

• PubChem Compound Summary CID 16063567

• Firmenich Product Literature

• Scentspiracy Archives

• IFRA Standards Documentation

• ECHA Substance Information