Synthetic Ingredient Overview
🏭 Manufacturer: IFF
🔎 Chemical Name: Proprietary Mixture
🧪 Synonyms: Heliotrope Base, Heliotropin Substitute
🧬 Chemical Formula: Not applicable (multi-component)
📂 CAS N°: Mixture (non-disclosed)
📘 FEMA: Not listed
⚖️ MW: Not applicable
📝 Odor Type: Floral, Gourmand
📈 Odor Strength: Medium
👃🏼 Odor Profile: Sweet, powdery, almond-like, reminiscent of heliotrope flowers; warm and nostalgic
⚗️ Uses: Floral and gourmand modifier; used in heliotrope, lilac, violet, and almond-themed fragrances
🧴 Appearance: Clear to pale liquid
🧪 Suggested Use Level: Up to 15% in final formula (trial recommended)
What is Heliotropex?
Heliotropex is a synthetic composition developed by IFF as a regulatory-compliant alternative to heliotropin (piperonal), which has faced increasing global restriction due to potential genotoxicity concerns. Unlike heliotropin, Heliotropex is a multi-component blend designed to recreate the sweet, balsamic, almond-vanilla notes that characterize heliotrope-themed perfumes. It does not function as a 1:1 substitute and should be tested thoroughly in formulation.
The exact composition of Heliotropex is proprietary, and its performance varies slightly across fragrance types. However, it consistently delivers a powdery-floral warmth suitable for both fine and functional perfumery.
Olfactory Profile & Perfumery Applications
Primary Scent Impression:
Floral-powdery
Slightly balsamic and almond-like
Reminiscent of heliotrope, lilac, cherry blossom
Ideal Applications:
Fine Fragrance: Floral bouquets, vintage-style floral orientals, and gourmand bases
Functional Products: Soaps, body lotions, detergents, and air fresheners
Candles and Home Fragrance: Performs well in wax matrices and diffusive formats
Fragrance Families:
Floral: Lilac, Heliotrope, Mimosa, Cherry Blossom
Gourmand: Vanilla-almond blends, Tonka bean accords
Oriental: Adds warmth and sweetness to balsamic, spicy structures
Blending Recommendations:
Violet Leaf Absolute, Benzyl Salicylate, Coumarin, Tonalide, Iso E Super®, Methyl Ionones, and Vanillin derivatives
Regulatory & Safety Overview
IFRA Compliance: Designed to be compliant with current IFRA restrictions on heliotropin
CAS Registration: Composition is a proprietary mixture; no single CAS applies
EU Cosmetic Regulation (EC 1223/2009): Does not require labeling as an allergen under standard conditions
Toxicology: Considered safe at recommended concentrations; no known sensitization risk
FEMA/Flavor Use: Not approved for use in flavors or ingestible products
✅ Heliotropex is considered safe and effective under IFRA guidelines. Always test in context-specific formulations due to variable interactions.
Additional Notes
Performance Tip: While designed to mimic heliotropin, Heliotropex exhibits subtle differences in top note brightness and longevity. It is best evaluated in controlled trials within intended application matrices.
Storage Recommendation: Store in cool, dry conditions in airtight containers to preserve stability and olfactory integrity.
Sources
User-provided source materials
IFF Technical Documentation (2023)
Scentspiracy Archive (Fulvio Ciccolo, 2024)
IFRA Standards (51st Amendment)
Perfume and Flavor Chemicals – S. Arctander