Helional
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Helional is a synthetic floral-green aldehyde developed by IFF and classified chemically as a hydrocinnamaldehyde. Its signature combines aquatic-melon freshness with heliotrope and lily-of-the-valley effects, making it a key building block in marine and muguet-style accords. Structurally stable and versatile, Helional performs across fine fragrance and functional applications—from fougères to detergents.
It is also reactive in Schiff-base formation, expanding its role in complex perfumery systems.
Premium Synthetic Ingredient for Perfumery
Helional is a synthetic floral-green aldehyde developed by IFF and classified chemically as a hydrocinnamaldehyde. Its signature combines aquatic-melon freshness with heliotrope and lily-of-the-valley effects, making it a key building block in marine and muguet-style accords. Structurally stable and versatile, Helional performs across fine fragrance and functional applications—from fougères to detergents.
It is also reactive in Schiff-base formation, expanding its role in complex perfumery systems.
Premium Synthetic Ingredient for Perfumery
Helional is a synthetic floral-green aldehyde developed by IFF and classified chemically as a hydrocinnamaldehyde. Its signature combines aquatic-melon freshness with heliotrope and lily-of-the-valley effects, making it a key building block in marine and muguet-style accords. Structurally stable and versatile, Helional performs across fine fragrance and functional applications—from fougères to detergents.
It is also reactive in Schiff-base formation, expanding its role in complex perfumery systems.
Synthetic Ingredient Overview
🏭 Manufacturer — International Flavors & Fragrances (IFF)
🔎 Chemical Name — 3-(1,3-Benzodioxol-5-yl)-2-methylpropanal (IUPAC) (National Center for Biotechnology Information [NCBI], 2025)
🧪 Synonyms — Helional; α-Methyl-1,3-benzodioxole-5-propanal; Ocean propanal; MMDHCA; 2-Methyl-3-(3,4-methylenedioxyphenyl)propanal (NCBI, 2025)
🧬 Chemical Formula — C₁₁H₁₂O₃ (NCBI, 2025)
📂 CAS — 1205-17-0 (NCBI, 2025)
📘 FEMA — 4599
⚖️ MW — 192.21 g mol⁻¹ (NCBI, 2025)
📝 Odor Type — Floral-green, aquatic “muguet” aldehyde (IFF, 2025)
📈 Odor Strength — High impact; ~ 60 h on a 1 % blotter
👃🏼 Odor Profile — Fresh watery-melon top; sweet heliotrope/cyclamen heart; new-mown-hay & soft almond-anisic facets (IFF, 2025)
⚗️ Uses — Fine-fragrance accords (marine, muguet, fougère); functional perfumery (soaps, detergents, fabric softeners, air-care); Schiff-base formation with methyl anthranilate (Arctander, 1969; IFF, 2025)
🧴 Appearance — Colourless to very pale-yellow liquid; flash-point ≈ 100 °C
What is Helional?
Helional is a synthetic hydrocinnamaldehyde that delivers a cool melon-aquatic freshness combined with sweet heliotrope nuances, making it a cornerstone of modern transparent-floral and marine compositions (Arctander, 1969; Kraft & Bajgrowicz, 2001).
Historical Background
International Flavors & Fragrances chemists G. J. Beets and H. van Essen patented Helional in 1958 (US 3 008 968). Commercial introduction followed in the early 1960s, offering formulators a robust “ocean-fresh” aldehyde stable in alkaline cleaning bases. The material later inspired other aquatic ingredients such as Calone 1951 and Aquaflor™(Kraft & Bajgrowicz, 2001).
Olfactory Profile
Scent Family & Descriptors
Fresh-aquatic / floral-green aldehyde with melon-dew top notes, lily-of-the-valley and heliotrope heart, and a mild green-anisic dry-down (IFF, 2025).
Intensity, Tenacity & Volatility
Medium volatility (b.p. ≈ 282 °C) grants high diffusivity and ~ 60 h persistence on blotter at 1 %.
Applications in Fine Fragrance
Dosage: 0.1 – 1 % of concentrate (IFRA Cat 4 maximum 2.6 %).
Notable use in Davidoff Cool Water (1988) and Calvin Klein Escape (1991).
Synergistic with Cyclamen Aldehyde, Floralozone, cis-Jasmone, green ionones, and marine boosters such as Calone.
Performance in Formula
Stable up to pH 10, bleach-resistant, and low in colour contribution. Acts as a volume enhancer and mild fixative, with excellent compatibility in both alcohol and detergent bases (IFF, 2025).
Industrial & Technical Uses
At trace levels Helional masks malodours in industrial cleaners, freshens tobacco substitutes, and imparts lasting freshness to fabric-softener microcapsules while remaining readily biodegradable (IFF, 2025).
Regulatory & Safety Overview
IFRA 51 (2023): Restricted for dermal sensitisation and systemic exposure; 2.6 % max in Category 4 leave-on products (International Fragrance Association [IFRA], 2023).
EU Cosmetics Regulation (1223/2009): Not listed in Annex II (prohibited) or Annex III (26 declarable fragrance allergens).
GHS / CLP: Skin Sens. 1 (H317), Repr. 2 (H361f), Aquatic Chronic 2 (H411) (European Chemicals Agency [ECHA], 2025).
REACH: Registered (100 – 1 000 t yr⁻¹); not classified as a Substance of Very High Concern (ECHA, 2025).
FEMA GRAS 4599: No flavour limitations beyond good manufacturing practice (FEMA, 2025).
Transport: Non-hazardous for ADR/IATA when ≤ 1 L; flash-point > 100 °C (Supplier SDS, 2025).
Additional Reading on Scentspiracy
Sources
Arctander, S. (1969). Perfume and Flavor Chemicals (pp. H1341-H1342). Allured.
Beets, G. J., & van Essen, H. (1958). Process for making 2-methyl-3-(3′,4′-methylenedioxyphenyl)-propanal (US Patent No. 3,008,968).
European Chemicals Agency. (2025). Substance information: α-methyl-1,3-benzodioxole-5-propanal (CAS 1205-17-0).Retrieved April 29, 2025, from https://echa.europa.eu
Flavor & Extract Manufacturers Association. (2025). GRAS 4599 Monograph: Helional.
International Flavors & Fragrances. (2025). Helional® ingredient compendium page. Retrieved April 29, 2025, from https://www.iff.com
International Fragrance Association. (2023). IFRA Standards, 51st Amendment.
Kraft, P., & Bajgrowicz, J. A. (2001). 50 years of synthetic perfumery—Then and now. Chimia, 55(5), 379-387. https://doi.org/10.2533/chimia.2001.379
National Center for Biotechnology Information. (2025). PubChem compound summary for CID 64805, Helional.Retrieved April 29, 2025, from https://pubchem.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov
Supplier Safety Data Sheet. (2025). α-Methyl-1,3-benzodioxole-5-propanal (Helional) SDS.
