Ambrox® Super

Ambrox Super® Technical Ingredient Overview

• 🏭 Manufacturer — Firmenich (dsm-firmenich)

• 🔎 Chemical Name — (3aR,5aS,9aS,9bR)-3a,6,6,9a-Tetramethyldodecahydronaphtho[2,1-b]furan

• 🧪 Synonyms — Ambroxide, Ambroxan, Ambrofix, (-)-Ambroxide, Dodecahydro-3a,6,6,9a-tetramethylnaphtho(2,1-b)furan, 1,5,5,9-Tetramethyl-13-oxatricyclo[8.3.0.0(4,9)]tridecane

• 📂 CAS Number — 6790-58-5

• 📘 FEMA Number — FEMA 3471

• ⚖️ Molecular Weight — 236.39 g/mol

• 📝 Molecular Formula — C₁₆H₂₈O

• 📈 Odor Strength — Extremely powerful and elegant

• 👃🏼 Odor Profile — Extremely powerful and elegant ambery odor with musky and woody tonalities. Sparklingly sensual, offering musky and woody tonalities to amber ingredients. Compared to CETALOX®, this profile is more natural, animalic, and closer to the original ambergris

• ⚗️ Uses — Highly diffusive, brings a unique ambery effect from top notes to dry down. Delivers sleek elegance and powerful iconic ambery signature in fine fragrances, functional perfumery, shampoos, shower gels, hand soaps, and fabric softener applications

• 🧴 Appearance — White crystalline powder/flakes

• 🕐 Tenacity — Lasts for one month on a smelling strip

• 🌡️ Melting Point — 70-77°C

• 💧 Physical State — Flakes/Crystals

• 📊 EC Number — 229-861-2

What is Ambrox Super®?

Ambrox Super® is a high-impact synthetic material developed by Firmenich using white biotechnology to replicate the olfactory character of natural ambergris. Known for its intense ambery, woody-musky profile, this molecule offers extreme tenacity and diffusion. The compound belongs to the perhydronaphthofuran chemical class and represents one of the most significant achievements in modern fragrance chemistry.

AMBROX® SUPER offers musky and woody tonalities to amber ingredients with a profile that is more natural, animalic, and closer to the original ambergris when compared to CETALOX®. This enantiopure compound functions primarily as a base note fixative and exalting agent, providing exceptional diffusion characteristics that allow it to perform across all fragrance phases from top notes through dry down.

The material's chemical structure features a fused bicyclic system with a furan ring, creating a rigid molecular framework that contributes to its exceptional stability and persistence in fragrance compositions.

Historical Background

The history of Ambrox Super® is intrinsically linked to the quest to replicate natural ambergris, one of perfumery's most prized and rare materials. Natural ambergris forms as a secretion in the digestive system of sperm whales and undergoes extensive aging in seawater, developing its characteristic warm, animalic, and marine odor profile through oxidative degradation processes (Arctander, 1960).

In the 1930s, Nobel laureate Leopold Ružička, alongside M. Stoll and E. Lederer, spearheaded Firmenich's research into the natural fixative, identifying Ambrox and Ambrinol as key aromatic constituents. This pioneering work laid the foundation for synthetic ambergris chemistry and established Firmenich as a leader in amber note development (Pybus & Sell, 2006).

By 1950, Firmenich had patented a semi-synthetic route to Ambroxide via sclareol, a diterpene alcohol extracted from clary sage (Salvia sclarea) distillation residues. This breakthrough represented a paradigm shift in perfumery, making ambergris-type notes accessible, ethical, and sustainable. The traditional synthesis involves oxidative degradation of sclareol to sclareolide (a lactone), followed by reduction to a diol and subsequent acid-catalyzed cyclization to form the naphtho[2,1-b]furan ring system (Rowe, 2005).

To address fluctuations in the clary sage supply chain and to offer different olfactory profiles, Firmenich introduced AMBROX® DL in 1988, leveraging a novel synthetic route that produces a racemic mixture containing multiple stereoisomers with enhanced fixative properties.

The most significant advancement came in 2016 when Firmenich industrialized AMBROX® SUPER using white biotechnology—a fermentation-based platform that improved yield, reduced environmental impact, and refined the olfactory profile. This white biotechnology platform stems from an investment programme begun by the firm in 1987, which led to its 'green notes' ingredients range in 1993, where all raw materials were derived from nature and compost was the only waste product.

The biotechnology process uses microorganisms (such as engineered yeast strains) to produce the compound through fermentation, coupled with proprietary green chemistry technology for downstream processing. This represents one of the most sustainable production methods in modern perfumery, achieving 100% renewable carbon content and dramatically reducing the environmental footprint compared to traditional chemical synthesis (Firmenich, 2016).

Olfactory Profile

Scent Family: Amber / Woody / Musky

Main Descriptors:

• Powerful, radiant woody-amber signature

• Distinctive mineral-marine facets

• Clean animalic warmth

• Subtle sweet powdery undertones

• Exceptionally diffusive and complex ambergris character

• Dry, elegant woody base with musky-ambery overlay

Intensity: Extremely powerful and elegant - Ambrox Super® is noted for its exceptional strength compared to other ambroxide variants on the market. Its potency allows perfumers to achieve significant olfactory impact at modest dosage levels.

Tenacity: Exceptional - lasting for one month on a smelling strip, demonstrating extraordinary persistence that rivals and often exceeds many natural fixatives.

Volatility: Base note character with unique diffusive properties that bring a unique ambery effect from top notes to dry down. Despite its low vapor pressure and classification as a base note, Ambrox Super® exhibits remarkable diffusion characteristics that allow its presence to be felt throughout the entire fragrance evolution.

Diffusion: Highly diffusive, providing exceptional projection and sillage throughout the fragrance's evolution. This unusual combination of tenacity and diffusion makes it particularly valuable in modern perfumery.

Fixative Role: Acts as both a classical fixative (reducing volatility of lighter notes) and as a radiant base note that exalts and amplifies companion ingredients. Its ability to "boost" other materials without overwhelming them is one of its most valued characteristics.

Comparative Profile: Compared to CETALOX® (the racemic mixture of ambroxide isomers), AMBROX® SUPER's profile is more natural, animalic, and closer to the original ambergris. Where Cetalox tends toward a cleaner, more linear woody-dry character, Ambrox Super® offers greater complexity, warmth, and animalic nuance. Compared to generic ambroxan variants, it demonstrates superior radiance, diffusion, and olfactory sophistication.

Perfumer's Notes

Experienced perfumers note that Ambrox Super® requires 24-48 hours of maceration in alcoholic solutions to fully develop its characteristic radiance. The material benefits from "resting" time in formulas, often revealing its full potential only after several days of maturation.

When working at higher concentrations (>2% in concentrate), be aware that the material can dominate compositions and may cause olfactory fatigue. Many perfumers find that "less is more" with this powerful ingredient, using it judiciously to achieve lift and projection without overwhelming more delicate notes.

Applications in Fine Fragrance

Ambrox Super® has become one of the most ubiquitous and valued ingredients in contemporary perfumery, appearing in countless modern fragrances across all market segments. Its velvety ambery core supports a wide range of fragrance types—especially in woody, oriental, and modern ambergris-style accords.

Primary Applications:

• Woody Fragrances: Provides warm, radiant base notes that enhance cedar, sandalwood, and vetiver compositions

• Oriental Accords: Adds depth, sensuality, and fixation to amber, vanilla, and spice combinations

• Marine/Aquatic Fragrances: Contributes mineral-saline facets that evoke oceanic freshness

• Modern Minimalist Compositions: Serves as a central structural element in stripped-back, molecule-focused perfumes

• Aldehydic Florals: Rounds off sharp chemical notes and adds warm, skin-like radiance

• Citrus Colognes: Extends top note freshness and adds substantial base character

Blending Behavior: It is often employed at base note levels to confer warmth and longevity, pairing particularly well with:

• Iso E Super: Creates synergistic woody-amber effects with enhanced diffusion

• Cashmeran: Adds musky-woody depth with creamy, velvety texture

• Synthetic Musks: (Galaxolide, Habanolide) - amplifies clean, skin-like radiance

• Woody Synthetics: (Timberol, Javanol, Polysantol) - enhances naturalistic wood effects

• Hedione: Creates sparkling, transparent floral-woody harmonies

• Citrus Oils: Extends and substantiates fresh top notes

• Vanillin/Ethyl Vanillin: Balances sweetness with dry, woody counterpoint

The material is particularly valued in modern fragrance construction where ambergris-inspired notes have become central to fragrance architecture. It works synergistically with aldehydic structures, floral hearts, and citrus top notes, providing structural support and enhancing overall performance.

Typical Use Levels: Average use: 0.1% in a perfume compound (approximately 1% in finished fragrance at standard dilution), though concentrations can range significantly higher in amber-focused compositions. Some contemporary "ambrox bomb" fragrances utilize levels up to 10% or higher in the concentrate to achieve extreme diffusion and longevity effects.

Notable Fragrance Associations: While Firmenich maintains a proprietary captive material called "Ambrox Classique" used in luxury fragrances such as Creed Aventus, Ambrox Super® represents the closest commercially available variant to this elite material. The biotechnology-derived Ambrox Super® is considered superior to earlier versions (Ambrox DL) and comparable to Givaudan's Ambrofix™ in terms of olfactory quality.

Performance in Formula

Ambrox® Super demonstrates excellent substantivity on skin and textiles. It acts both as a fixative and a radiating heart note, helping to elevate and round out blends. Its low volatility ensures extended performance over time, making it an industry-standard base material in both niche and mass-market perfumery.

Key Performance Characteristics:

• Substantivity on Skin: Exceptional adherence to skin with gradual release over 24+ hours

• Textile Retention: Outstanding performance on fabrics, withstanding multiple wash cycles

• Stability: Excellent resistance to oxidation, UV degradation, and pH variations

• Bloom: Develops and evolves beautifully over time rather than exhibiting linear evaporation

• Temperature Response: Warms and amplifies in response to skin temperature

• Solubility: Readily soluble in alcohol, oils, and common perfumery solvents

Formulation Behavior: The material exhibits remarkable blending properties, enhancing rather than dominating companion notes while providing structural integrity to complex compositions. Its exceptional diffusion allows formulators to achieve impactful sillage at relatively modest dosage levels.

Unlike some powerful base notes that can "muddy" or overwhelm lighter materials, Ambrox Super® maintains transparency while adding depth—a characteristic that makes it particularly valuable in sophisticated modern compositions. It helps to "lift" and amplify other ingredients through a phenomenon perfumers describe as "exalting" or "boosting" effects.

Processing Considerations:

• May require gentle warming (40-50°C) for easier pipetting when stored at cool temperatures

• Fully compatible with standard perfumery alcohols and carriers

• Does not require special handling or storage beyond standard cool, dark conditions

• Exhibits excellent stability in both alcoholic and oil-based formulations

Industrial & Technical Uses

Beyond fine fragrance, Ambrox® Super finds extensive application in functional perfumery where its unique combination of power, substantivity, and safety profile provides significant advantages.

Functional Fragrance Applications:

• Personal Care Products: Shampoos, conditioners, body washes, lotions, deodorants

• Fabric Care: Laundry detergents, fabric softeners, dryer sheets

• Home Care: Air fresheners, surface cleaners, candles

• Technical Applications: Masking malodors in industrial products

AMBROX® SUPER provides fine fragrance, wet, dry, bloom & foam substantivity, making it particularly valuable in rinse-off applications where fragrance retention is challenging. In shampoo applications, it survives the dilution and rinse process while depositing on hair fibers. In fabric softeners, it provides long-lasting fragrance that releases gradually during wear.

Technical Advantages in Functional Perfumery:

• Survives aggressive surfactant systems

• Maintains stability across wide pH ranges (pH 3-11)

• Excellent compatibility with chelating agents and preservatives

• Does not discolor or affect product appearance

• Contributes to overall fragrance longevity without requiring high dosage

Production Technology: AMBROX® SUPER is produced by green synthesis with 100% renewable carbon, positioning it as one of the most sustainable high-performance fragrance ingredients available. The white biotechnology platform uses fermentation of renewable feedstocks (such as sugarcane-derived sugars) with engineered microorganisms, followed by green chemistry extraction and purification processes.

Sustainability Metrics:

• 100% renewable carbon content (bio-based)

• Readily biodegradable

• Lower carbon footprint compared to traditional chemical synthesis (approximately 70% reduction)

• Minimal waste generation

• No reliance on petrochemical feedstocks

• Does not utilize whale-derived ambergris

Regulatory & Safety Overview

IFRA Status: IFRA Amendment 51: No restriction for category 4 - indicating an excellent safety profile across all fragrance applications. This unrestricted status reflects extensive safety testing and demonstrates that the material can be used without specific limitations in leave-on products, perfumes, and other fragrance applications.

EU Cosmetics Regulation: Not classified as a known allergen under EU Cosmetics Regulation 1223/2009 and is REACH-registered under European chemicals legislation. This registration provides comprehensive safety data and enables legal use throughout the European market.

FEMA Status: FEMA 3471 - approved for use in flavoring applications, indicating safety for incidental ingestion at appropriate use levels in food and beverage applications.

Certifications:

• EcoIngredient Compass™ certified

• Kosher certified

• Halal certified

Environmental Profile:

• Readily biodegradable according to OECD test guidelines

• Low aquatic toxicity

• Does not bioaccumulate

• Sustainable sourcing through biotechnology platform

Toxicology: As of current data, Ambrox Super® does not present significant dermal sensitization risks when used at typical concentrations. Extensive safety testing including:

• Acute toxicity studies (LD50 values indicate low toxicity)

• Skin irritation and sensitization testing (non-irritating, non-sensitizing)

• Ocular irritation testing (minimal to no irritation)

• Repeated dose toxicity studies (no adverse effects at typical use levels)

• Genotoxicity testing (non-mutagenic)

Handling and Storage:

• Store in cool, dry conditions away from direct sunlight

• Stable under normal storage conditions

• No special PPE required beyond standard laboratory practice

• Non-hazardous for transport under most regulations

• Shelf life: 24+ months when properly stored

Regulatory Documentation: Comprehensive regulatory documentation is available from Firmenich including:

• IFRA Certificates of Conformity

• Safety Data Sheets (SDS/MSDS)

• Allergen declarations

• GMO statements

• Animal testing statements (not tested on animals)

• Certificates of Analysis (CoA)

References

• Arctander, S. (1960). Perfume and Flavor Materials of Natural Origin. Elizabeth, NJ: Published by the author.

• ChemIDplus. (n.d.). Ambroxide (CAS 6790-58-5). National Library of Medicine. Retrieved from https://chem.nlm.nih.gov/chemidplus/rn/6790-58-5

• Firmenich. (2016). Sharing Innovation in Perfumery: Ambrox Story. Retrieved from https://www.firmenich.com

• Firmenich. (2022). IFRA Certificate of Conformity: Ambrox Super. dsm-firmenich official documentation.

• Firmenich. (n.d.). AMBROX® SUPER Product Information. Retrieved from https://www.firmenich.com/product/ambroxr-super-pe-909158-0

• Firmenich. (n.d.). Biotechnology Platform. Retrieved from https://www.dsm-firmenich.com/en/businesses/perfumery-beauty/ingredients/biotechnology.html

• PubChem. (2024). (-)-Ambroxide (CID: 10857465). National Center for Biotechnology Information. Retrieved from https://pubchem.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/compound/Ambroxide

• Pybus, D., & Sell, C. (Eds.). (2006). The Chemistry of Fragrances: From Perfumer to Consumer (2nd ed.). Cambridge: Royal Society of Chemistry.

• Rowe, D. J. (Ed.). (2005). Chemistry and Technology of Flavors and Fragrances. Oxford: Blackwell Publishing.

• Sigma-Aldrich. (n.d.). (-)-Ambroxide Product Information (CAS 6790-58-5). Retrieved from chemical supplier documentation.