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Iso e Super

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Iso E Super® (CAS 54464-57-2) is a synthetic amber-woody molecule developed by IFF, formally known as 1-(2,3,8,8-tetramethyl-1,2,3,4,5,6,7,8-octahydronaphthalen-2-yl)ethan-1-one.

Exhibiting a subtle, diffusive character, it delivers a velvety, transparent dry woody aroma with hints of cedar, ambergris, and violet leaf. Used as both a booster and a backbone material, it enhances the complexity and longevity of woody, floral, and musky accords. With excellent formulation stability and high compatibility, it is among the most widely used synthetic materials in perfumery history.

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Premium Synthetic Ingredient for Perfumery

Iso E Super® (CAS 54464-57-2) is a synthetic amber-woody molecule developed by IFF, formally known as 1-(2,3,8,8-tetramethyl-1,2,3,4,5,6,7,8-octahydronaphthalen-2-yl)ethan-1-one.

Exhibiting a subtle, diffusive character, it delivers a velvety, transparent dry woody aroma with hints of cedar, ambergris, and violet leaf. Used as both a booster and a backbone material, it enhances the complexity and longevity of woody, floral, and musky accords. With excellent formulation stability and high compatibility, it is among the most widely used synthetic materials in perfumery history.

Synthetic Ingredient Overview

  • 🔎 Chemical Name: 1-(2,3,8,8-tetramethyl-1,2,3,4,5,6,7,8-octahydronaphthalen-2-yl)ethan-1-one

  • 🧪 Synonyms: Iso E Super®, Isocyclemone E, Ambralux, Anthamber

  • 🧬 Chemical Formula: C₁₆H₂₆O

  • 📂 CAS N°: 54464-57-2

  • 📘 FEMA: Not assigned

  • ⚖️ MW: 234.38 g/mol

  • 📝 Odor Type: Woody-Ambery

  • 📈 Odor Strength: Medium

  • 👃🏼 Odor Profile: Smooth, dry, ambery-woody cedar with velvety ambergris and patchouli effects; subtle phenolic nuance

  • ⚗️ Uses: Fixative, backbone, enhancer; essential in woody, floral, and musky structures

  • 🧴 Appearance: Clear to pale yellow mobile liquid

  • 💧 Solubility: Soluble in alcohol; low water solubility (0.00268 g/L at 20 °C)

What is Iso E Super®?

Iso E Super® is a bicyclic ketone with aromatic characteristics designed to mimic dry woody-amber facets found in natural materials like cedarwood and ambergris. First developed by IFF in the early 1970s, it offers a lightweight yet powerful molecular structure that allows for both longevity and radiance in perfume compositions.

Its structure belongs to the tetramethyl-substituted octahydronaphthalene class, giving it chemical flexibility and a low odor threshold. Despite being nearly odorless to some individuals, its key isomer, later identified as Arborone, is responsible for the primary olfactory impact.

The Development and History of Iso E Super®

Iso E Super® was born out of structural experimentation with ionone-related compounds. IFF chemists John B. Hall and James M. Sanders filed the patent in 1973 for Isocyclemone E, its precursor. By 1975, Iso E Super® was first used in Halston for Women (25%). Its breakthrough came in 1988 with Fahrenheit by Dior, composed by Jean-Louis Sieuzac and Maurice Roger—one of the first "overdoses" of the molecule in fine perfumery.

Later studies by Givaudan revealed that Arborone, a minor constituent (~5%), drives Iso E Super’s character. This led to the creation of next-generation compounds like Georgywood (exclusive to Givaudan) and Iso Gamma (IFF), offering better solubility and environmental performance.

Iso E Super®'s adaptive nature and excellent cost-to-performance ratio have made it a staple across all fragrance categories, from luxury perfumes (e.g., Molecule 01) to functional products and soap bases.

Olfactory Profile & Perfumery Applications

  • Olfactive Family: Woody-Ambery

  • Main Notes: Cedarwood, ambergris, vetiver, patchouli, violet leaf

  • Texture: Velvety, dry, transparent, musky

Applications in Fine Fragrance:

  • Core backbone in masculine woody perfumes

  • Enhancer of floral (especially rose, violet, iris) and musky accords

  • Supports radiance and tenacity in aldehydic, amber, and spicy structures

Examples of Use:

  • Dior Fahrenheit (1988) – breakthrough overdose (28–30%)

  • Escentric Molecules Molecule 01 (2006) – 100% Iso E Super®

  • Terre d’Hermès (2006) – ~55% Iso E Super®

  • Lalique Perles – ~80%

  • Abercrombie & Fitch Fierce – ~48%

Applications in Functional Products:

  • Soaps, shampoos, detergents, deodorants

  • Room sprays and air care for its smooth, non-overpowering radiance

Industrial Use & Chemical Properties

  • Type: Bicyclic synthetic aromatic compound

  • Functionality: Enhancer, fixative, radiance booster

  • Volatility: Low; sits between heart and base notes

  • Formulation Behavior: Highly stable, non-reactive, non-discoloring

  • Biodegradability: Moderate to high (IFF developed biodegradable alternatives)

  • Blend Compatibility: Excellent with musks, vanillin, sandalwood, cedar, florals

Regulatory & Safety Overview

  • IFRA Compliance: No outright bans; usage limits vary by product category (per 51st Amendment QRA)

  • EU 1223/2009: Not a declarable allergen

  • REACH: Registered

  • ECHA Classification: Not classified as hazardous

  • Phototoxicity: Not phototoxic

  • Toxicology: Not sensitizing; considered safe in standard usage

✅ Iso E Super® is widely regarded as safe, stable, and high-performing, with no known environmental hazards when used under recommended conditions.

Sources

  • Scentspiracy Archives (Fulvio Ciccolo, 2024)

  • The History of Iso E Super® in Perfumery – Matvey Yudov

  • Perfume and Flavor Chemicals – S. Arctander (1969)

  • IFF Product Portal & LMR Naturals by IFF

  • Fragrantica & GlamourCosmetics.it

  • PubChem CID 11120700

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