Perfume Formulation: Understanding the importance of Fixatives
perfume Fixatives: Types, Properties, and Applications in Perfumery
Fixatives are substances used in various industries with the purpose of preserving the original state of various materials and preventing its decomposition, deterioration, and evaporation. Fixatives are extremely valuable resources both in the artistic field, where they prevent the deterioration of artworks, and in the scientific field, where they slow down the decomposition of tissues.
Understanding this gives us the possibility to grasp just how fundamental fixatives are in creating a fragrance. In fact, fixatives are commonly used in the fragrance industry to enhance and extend the life of perfumes. For example, fixatives can reduce the rate of evaporation of the more volatile materials in fragrance composition. A fixative, when used, acts as a base in perfume which helps anchor the oil’s fragrance, resulting in a slower release and a longer-lasting fragrance throughout the day. Thus, studying the nature and typology of said substances could not only greatly benefit the perfumer, but also the fragrance itself.
The use of fixatives in perfumes plays a crucial role in determining the final fragrance profile. Given the potential for fixatives to significantly alter the scent of a perfume, it is of outmost importance for perfumers to carefully consider the type of fixatives they use. This is because different types of fixatives can have varying effects on the scent of a perfume, and it is therefore imperative for the perfumers to choose the appropriate type of fixative in order to achieve their desired fragrance outcome.
It is also important to note that there are many categories of fixatives, including resinoids and fixatives of animal origin. However, many of these have been replaced by more sustainable (both economically and ecologically) and ethical synthetic counterparts, such as Dipropylene Glycol, Cyclopentadecanolide, and Benzyl Salicylate, among others.
The intent of this article is to describe the behavior and use of the four primary categories of fixatives.
Typologies and Utilization:
As previously illustrated, it is essential for the perfumer to meticulously select the correct type of fixative to use in a fragrance to be able to manipulate its aroma and longevity. When it comes to the various typologies of fixatives, the importance of Steffen Arctander’s work Perfume and Flavor Materials of Natural Origin (1960) cannot be overlooked. Arctander provides a preliminary subdivision of fixatives in four categories, reporting their peculiar characteristics and olfactory behaviors.
The first category is comprised by typically non-volatile substances, easily compatible with other fragrances due to their mild-aroma. This first type, as previously described, is usually added to the perfume formulation to help stabilize and prolong the aroma of the volatile compounds contained in the fragrance. By slowing down the evaporation of the volatile compounds, this fixatives favorites the anchoring of the aroma to the skin. This particular fixatives can also be identified by their high-molecular structure. Some examples of this first category are Benzoin, Musk, Civet, Labdanum and Ambregris.
Contrary to the first category, the so-called “arbitrary” fixatives are not specifically utilized for their ability to interact with the evaporation of the volatile compounds, but are instead chosen for their sensory contribution in scent, color, and texture. A few examples of arbitrary fixatives are Patchouli, Beeswax, Oakmoss (Evernyl), and Sandalwood.
Although possessing varying degrees of fixative properties, the third category, also known as exalting fixatives, are specifically used to enhance other notes present in the fragrance composition. Materials such as Tolu Balsam, Peru Balsam, and Vanilla are primarily used in perfume formulation for their scent profile, adding complexity, warmth and depth to the fragrance, resulting in a pleasurable wearability of the fragrance. Due to their prominent nature, these materials are often used in small quantities, thus avoiding a dramatic alteration of the perfume’s olfactory profile.
The last category, referred to as “so-called fixatives” does not necessarily possess fixative capability. Instead, being high-boiling materials, they cause an increase in boiling point of the perfume composition, paralyzing the odor of the low-boiling materials. Therefore, these materials, being comprised primarily of odoreless or nearly odoreless crystalline or viscous liquids, have a purely physical effect with minor, if any, repercussions on the actual scent of the fragrance.
Sources:
Scentspiracy 2023
The Pathologist’s Guide to Fixatives - Kiran Qidwai, Michelle Afkhami, and Chistina E. Day
Perfume and Flavor Materials of Natural Origin - Steffen Arctander pp. 18-19
Photo from Adrien Converse on Unsplash