Tubereuse 184108

Tubereuse 184108 – Firmenich's Legendary Tuberose Absolute Recreation

• 🏭 Manufacturer — Firmenich (now dsm-Firmenich)

• 🔎 Chemical Name — Proprietary complex fragrance base (tuberose absolute reconstruction)

• 🧪 Synonyms — Tubereuse 181, Tubereuse 181-G, Tubereuse 41286 SA, Tubereuse 41286 SAF, Tuberose Absolute Synthetic

• 📂 CAS Number — Mixture (no single CAS; proprietary blend)

• 📘 FEMA Number — N/A (proprietary perfumery base)

• 🔢 EC Number — N/A

• ⚖️ Molecular Weight — Not applicable (complex blend)

• 🔬 Molecular Formula — Not applicable (complex blend)

• 📝 Odor Type — Floral (White Floral / Tuberose)

• 📈 Odor Strength — High — effective from 0.1%, recommended max ≈ 2% of total concentrate

• 👃🏼 Odor Profile — Heavy, creamy, narcotic white floral with warm tuberose character; subtle green, spicy, and slightly indolic facets; sweet, heady, and penetrating

• ⚗️ Uses — Fine fragrance (soliflores, white floral accords, oriental, chypre, gourmand compositions), functional perfumery, personal care

• 🧴 Appearance — Colorless to pale yellow / gold liquid

Additional Physical Properties

• 🌡️ Melting Point — N/A (liquid at room temperature)

• 🔥 Boiling Point — Not published (complex mixture)

• 💧 Density — Not published

• 🔍 Refractive Index — Not published

• 💧 Solubility — Soluble in ethanol and common fragrance solvents

• 🔄 Specific Rotation — N/A

• ✅ Purity — N/A (proprietary blend, not a single molecule)

• 🧬 Biogenic Carbon Content — Not disclosed

What is Tubereuse 184108?

Tubereuse 184108 is a specialty perfumery base developed by Firmenich (now dsm-Firmenich) designed as a meticulous reconstruction of natural tuberose absolute (Polianthes tuberosa). Rather than a single molecule, it is a complex proprietary composition that faithfully recreates the rich, full-bodied olfactory signature of the tuberose flower — a scent that is extremely difficult and expensive to obtain from natural extraction.

Natural tuberose absolute is one of the most precious and costly materials in perfumery, requiring vast quantities of flowers for even a small yield. Tubereuse 184108 provides perfumers with a stable, cost-effective, IFRA-compliant alternative that captures the essential character of the natural material with remarkable fidelity, while offering superior batch-to-batch consistency and colour stability.

The base is classified as a "specialty" — a complex, pre-formulated composition that functions as a building block in fragrance creation, blurring the line between a raw material and a finished accord.

Historical Background

Tuberose (Polianthes tuberosa) has been one of the most revered flowers in perfumery since the 17th century, prized for its intoxicating, heady, almost narcotic scent. The natural absolute, extracted by solvent extraction (typically hexane) from the flowers, has been a mainstay of luxury perfumery but has always been limited by cost and supply.

Firmenich developed Tubereuse 184108 as part of their tradition of creating high-fidelity floral bases — specialty compositions designed to give perfumers reliable, versatile building blocks. The base became one of the most popular tuberose reconstructions in the industry, demonstrating how essential specialty bases are in both classical and modern perfumery.

Instead of a literal floral scent, Tubereuse 184108 offers a masterclass in texture: it mimics the thick, almost waxy feel of the petals, blending a green, sap-like freshness with an intensely warm, buttery, and indolic core. Its olfactory profile bridges the gap between a botanical absolute and a deeply narcotic fantasy flower, making it a textural cornerstone for any composition needing opulent floral weight.

ts enduring popularity across decades testifies to the quality of Firmenich's reconstruction, which remains a reference point for perfumers working with tuberose accords today.

Olfactory Profile

Scent Family

White Floral — heavy, narcotic, creamy, with warm, sweet, and slightly indolic character.

Main Descriptors

The opening is intensely floral and slightly green, evoking the waxy, fleshy quality of fresh tuberose petals at their peak bloom. The heart develops into a full, creamy, narcotic floral bouquet — rich, sweet, and heady — with subtle spicy and medicinal facets that add naturalistic complexity. The dry-down is warm, balsamic, and softly powdery, retaining the characteristic tuberose signature throughout its extraordinary lifespan.

Users report that the base can present as "quite green and almost spicy" in early evaluation, with the full creamy-narcotic character emerging over time.

Intensity

Very high intensity. Effective from as little as 0.1% in a composition. The recommended maximum use level is approximately 2% of total fragrance concentrate. Subtlety and precision are essential — overuse can overwhelm other components.

Tenacity

Exceptional. Lasts over 480 hours on a smelling strip (approximately 20 days), making it one of the most tenacious floral bases available. On skin and in finished products, it provides long-lasting depth and sillage.

Volatility

Heart to base note. Classified variously as a heart note (by some suppliers) or base note, reflecting its broad projection through the middle and dry-down phases of a fragrance.

Applications in Fine Fragrance

Tubereuse 184108 is remarkably versatile despite its powerful character, adapting to many creative directions:

• White Floral Soliflores (0.5–2%) — The essential building block for tuberose-centred compositions; provides the full-bodied, narcotic floral heart

• Oriental & Amber Accords (0.3–1.5%) — Adds creamy floral richness and a narcotic depth that complements amber, vanilla, and spice notes

• Chypre Compositions (0.2–1%) — Enriches the floral heart with warm, heady character; bridges bergamot top notes and mossy/woody bases

• Gourmand Fragrances (0.1–0.5%) — At low doses, contributes a lush, creamy sweetness that enhances lactonic and vanilla accords

• Green & Herbal Compositions (0.1–0.3%) — Surprisingly effective at trace amounts; small additions significantly enhance herbal and green floral compositions

Highly recommended in combination with natural tuberose absolute (e.g. from LMR) to add "captive warmth" and extend the natural material.

Performance in Formula

• Fixative Power — Outstanding; one of the most tenacious floral bases available (480+ hours on strip). Anchors the floral heart and extends longevity of entire compositions

• Radiance Effect — Excellent diffusion; radiates warmth and projects well in both alcohol-based and diluted applications

• Stability — Superior batch-to-batch consistency compared to natural tuberose absolute; stable colour (pale vs. deep orange-red of the natural)

• Compatibility — Extremely versatile; works across floral, oriental, chypre, woody, and gourmand families. Pairs beautifully with jasmine, ylang ylang, orange blossom, musks, and warm ambery notes

• Solubility — Excellent in ethanol and standard fragrance solvents

Industrial & Technical Uses

• Functional Perfumery — Widely used in premium functional fragrances (fabric care, personal care, home fragrance) to bring a luxurious white floral signature

• Personal Care — Suitable for body care, hair care, and premium soap fragrances where a rich tuberose note is desired

• Flavor Industry — Not applicable (perfumery use only)

• Cosmetics — Permitted under EU Cosmetics Regulation with specified concentration limits

Regulatory & Safety Overview

IFRA Status

IFRA 51st Amendment: 52.28% maximum in finished product (Category 4 — fine fragrance, alcohol-based).

EU Cosmetics Regulation

Permitted with the following maximum concentration limits (Regulation EC No 1223/2009):

• Fine fragrance: 12.79%

• Toilet waters & colognes: 12.79%

• Fragrancing creams: 12.79%

• Other leave-on products: 12.79%

• Rinse-off products: 63.99%

• Non-skin contact products: No restriction

• Oral hygiene products: Not permitted

• Intimate hygiene products: 12.79%

• Sun care products: 12.79%

EU REACH

As a proprietary blend by dsm-Firmenich, constituent chemicals are registered under REACH by the manufacturer.

FEMA Status

N/A (perfumery base, not a flavouring substance).

GHS Classification

Based on the Safety Data Sheet (SDS-9565):

• Skin Sensitization — Category 1A / 1B

• Skin Irritation — Category 2 / 3

• STOT SE — Category 3

Standard precautions: store in a well-ventilated place, keep container tightly closed, keep cool. Store locked up. Dispose of contents/container according to local regulations.

Toxicology

• Sensitization — Contains sensitizing components (Skin Sens. 1A/1B); standard allergen labelling may apply in finished products

• Phototoxicity — Not specifically flagged in available data

• General — Skin irritant (Cat. 2/3); may cause respiratory irritation (STOT SE 3). Handle with standard laboratory precautions

Sustainability Credentials

As a synthetic reconstruction, Tubereuse 184108 offers an inherent sustainability advantage over natural tuberose absolute by eliminating the need for intensive flower cultivation and solvent extraction. dsm-Firmenich is committed to sustainable sourcing and green chemistry across its portfolio.